Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Pant Drafting Part 5

Good Morning and an apology for not getting this post out yesterday. My day completely got away from me. So without further delay, here we go!

Adding Darts and Shaping the Pant Leg
Before we add seam allowances and do our first fitting, we need to add darts and slim the legs. My approach to adding the darts is maybe a little unorthodox as I like to have some fit when I do my first fitting, but then I make adjustments once I have the pants in muslin.
The first step we will take is to slim the pant leg. What we do to the front will also be done to the back. At this point, you may separate the front from the back if you feel the lines will become confusing. For our tutorial, I am using only the front pant leg for the demonstration.
On the front pant;
1. Divide J to L in half and mark as 1.
 2. Measure up 2" from 1 and mark as 2. This will be the knee point.
 3. Square a line across and mark as 3 and 4.
 4. Measure in at 3 and 4, 3/8". If your legs are a little thicker, measure in 1/4". Mark as 5 and 6.
 5. Using a curved ruler, connect E to 5. Connect 5 to M with a straight line.
6.Connect P to 6 with a straight line and 6 to N with a straight line. *Remember, the point at P should be curved as we don't want a point at our hip, but this can be adjusted during fitting.
Use the same measurements and points to slim the back leg.

On the front pant leg, measure down 3" on the center line. On the back pant leg, measure down 5".
 We allowed 2" for the darts, so divide this on either side of the center line.
For some, 1 dart will be fine and depending on the roundness of the tummy, you may need a second dart. We will talk about this in the next post when we begin the fitting process. And if you would like, the darts can be pinched in during the fitting. I will show you how I do this in our next fitting post.

I was asked about the bodice drafting that I started back in January. Sadly,I have allowed that to linger, but I do need to get back to it as it is part of the Master Sewing and Design Certification program that I am working on. I have decided to make Tuesdays our drafting day. We will continue on with the pants and I will also add in the bodice. Once the bodice is complete, we will move on to the sleeve and the skirt. I think you'll enjoy it. I hope so anyway :)
So your homework assignment is to finish up your drafting, and slim the legs. Add seam allowance. I like to add a 1" seam allowance for fitting purposes. Be sure that your seams match. Next Tuesday we will begin the fitting process.

You can find all the pant drafting posts here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/search/label/pant%20drafting

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  1. omg, Rhonda. I'm both glad and scared to see it. First thought: pants that can actually fit? Quickly followed by 2nd, 3rd and 4th thoughts: math phobia, math phobia, math phobia. I'll bookmark it and take it in small doses. Certainly couldn't do it on my own. Thanks dearie.

  2. Oh my love thank you so very much for this, Yes, Yes, Yes. You are a Godsend.

  3. What a huge amount of time you give your readers! You are so generous and kind. I learned a method like this from Margaret Islander. I didn't understand parts of it, so I'm thrilled you are clearing it up for me. Thank you so much for all you do.
    Hugs, Joy

  4. When I have finished my studies this year I will be following these posts with a practical application - I love that idea of slimming the legs - that is why most pant blocks don't work, they don't tell you to do this step!

    And yes, room to dart around one's own tummy is a great idea :).

    1. Yes, your studies come first. Work hard once and then it's over! I'll look forward to seeing your progress.

  5. This is wonderful! Everyone I know has trouble with pants. I almost said "hello" to you at the Expo last weekend, but you looked so busy! And I had a huge attack of shyness, age, and poor body image. I regret now that I didn't.

    1. Ohhh, my heart breaks :( I am so disappointed that I didn't get to meet you. You are such a lovely person. Believe me, I understand being shy. I had planned to tell a story this Sunday about my exchange student who just visited me, but now I want to share another story and a life lesson I learned from a very old pilot. I think you'll like it.

  6. I have completed 1-5 of this great tutorial on pant drafting but I just cannot seem to find the continuation of the instructions. I clicked the link next to "You can find all the pant drafting posts here" and couldn't find anything except." Is it staring me in the face? I would like to finish my pants :)

    1. Hi Lynne, I have to apologize as I have not finished the posts. I have a big commitment coming up the first of October that has me quite busy. I will make it a priority to finish the this up the first and second week of October.