Saturday, June 23, 2012

Sleeves On Saturdays

The Darted Wrist Sleeve
Today's sleeve has a dart that radiates from the wrist to the elbow. We are going to add one more detail with a pleat that radiates down the center of sleeve from the shoulder. 
The sleeve hangs very straight from the shoulder but gives interest with the dart and ample room for the elbow.
The pleat that is in the center of the sleeve hangs directly from the center of the sleeve and is perfectly in line with the shoulder seam.
I'm actually making a coat. The fabric is rather wild I guess, but I like it. The print is taken from a Botticelli painting.

To do this sleeve, it is best to start with a basic fitted sleeve pattern. The dart that is at the elbow will be rotated to the wrist and that is what gives the angle that you see above.
Draw a line up from the wrist to the elbow dart. Cut the elbow dart open and cut on the line that was drawn in. Close the elbow dart. The fullnes from the elbow dart will now radiate up from the wrist as you see below.
 We do not want the angled line so draw in a stright line as you see below.
 Now for the shoulder pleat. Cut from the top of the sleeve to the wrist on the center grainline.
Draw a line on your paper. Place the sleeve on the paper and equally spread the pleat opening on either side of the line.
 To cut the top of the sleeve pattern, fold on the outside lines as you see above and fold them towards the center line.
Now that the pleat is closed, cut the top of your sleeve pattern.
This will result in the pleat lines taking on the same curve as the top of your sleeve.
Be sure to add seam allowance to the inside area of the wrist dart.
It's as simple as that. This sleeve works beautifully on a suit jacket or coat.
Thanks for dropping by. Hope you're having a lovely weekend. The heat wave we were having has finally moved on out. Thank goodness. Being able to have the windows open and ejoy the breeze is just so lovely. Hope you're enjoying moderate temperatures where ever you may be.

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  1. What a wonderful fabric, is spectacular. And the sleeve is so original, I want to see the final result. For me it would be a dream find this type of fabrics. Rhonda thanks for teaching us once again another way to design our garments

  2. So lovely. And what a gentle way to learn about dart manipulation and drafting. Thank you

  3. I love the way you handle redrafting the curve at the top of the sleeve. Thanks for sharing this.
    I love the fabric, I certainly don't think its too wild. I breaks up into a nice texture on your garment.

  4. Rhonda..thank-you so very much for sharing your knowledge with us.

    I know what goes into writing a detailed tutorial complete with photography...I truly appreciate and enjoy all that you do. Thanks again!

  5. I can only echo what the others have said. Great tutorial, and beautiful results. I would love to try this on a shirt with a plain sleeve, and there are many patterns out there with plain sleeves. Thanks for sharing.

  6. What an interesting and inventive sleeve! Thanks for sharing!

  7. I love your revelations about sleeves. Right now I'm ready to shred an otherwise lovely jacket because I can't get the sleeves to fit and don't have fabric to cut new ones.

  8. As usual, absolutely great instructions and details. This will probably come across as anonymous; Lydia

  9. Lovely sleeve. SPECTACULAR FABRIC! My mum would say "I want never gets" but I really want!