The Best Sewing Gift Ever!

It was a Christmas that I thought would be especially bleak. My father had recently left, and my mother was especially sad. It was our first Christmas alone, and we were over a thousand miles away from any family. But, under the tree was a gift for me. I opened it, and inside was a sewing pattern and fabric. As wonderful as that was, what made it all the more special was that the fabric that was in the box was the exact same fabric that was on the pattern envelope! Everything was in the box to recreate the garment that I saw. I just couldn't believe it, 2 black and white coordinates, and packages of white cording. 

Over the Christmas break, I made up the outfit, and of course wore it proudly on my first day back at school. I felt as though I was wearing a designer garment. 

I still have the pattern. The envelope is a little worse for wear, but everything is still intact, no missing pattern pieces.

I've decided to somewhat recreate the outfit. Rather than in the matching fabric, I am using a plaid wool flannel for the skirt, and a coordinating black cotton chambray for the shirt. 

Although 1 is cotton, and the other wool, I really like how the 2 coordinate. 

I'll do the version on the right just as I did when I had the coordinating fabric, but this time around, I won't add the big patch pockets. Rather than a contrasting piping, I'll just self pipe both the shirt and the skirt. 

The pattern is really just a basic shirt and a wrap skirt, but it's special. It takes me back to a time when my world had fallen apart, and yet, there under that tree was a gift that represented potential. As it was, it was just a box with a pattern and some fabric. But, with just a little effort, I had something that made me feel so very special.  

Bring Back the Art of Tailoring

A year ago, while I was still president of the Haute Couture Club of Chicago, the board met for our summer planning meeting. For a number of years, the club had been giving scholarships to aspiring designers who were graduating from design school. Sadly, the school that we had partnered with, closed, so we needed a new strategy. Three of our board members had been mentoring 3 high school students who were interested in pursuing a career in fashion. So, rather than try and find another school to partner with, we decided to promote these young ladies. As it turned out, we loved it, and the audience loved it too. 

The young woman (Pearl) who won our top award was also awarded a scholarship to study at the Art Institute's school of fashion design. Such a wonderful opportunity for her. Although, she was lamenting that the sewing aspect of the program was lacking. So, I decided to help her out. Over the upcoming school year, I will be working with her to create a stitch and technique notebook as well as construct a true tailored jacket. I was so fortunate with the school that I attended as there was a very heavy focus on fine sewing skills. While in school, I built an incredible stitch and technique portfolio. Sadly, our basement flooded, and I lost my book. Needless to say, I was devastated. 

Back in June of this year, I taught a class on seam finishes and fabric stabilizing at the Michigan League of Handweavers conference. That gave me the incentive to begin building a new stitch and technique notebook. So, work has begun on mine, and as Pearl and I work together, my notebook will once again come to life :)

As it turned out, the board member who had been mentoring Pearl also wanted to participate in building a stitch/technique book, and make a true tailored jacket. At this point, I have gotten the 2 of them started. Their muslins have been fitted, and we are beginning the work of tailoring. I too will be putting together a tailored jacket so that they can follow along. So...in essence, if you would like, you can virtually be a part of the class as I will be posting each of the steps of my jacket here on the blog.

I have decided to use the vintage Vogue pattern that you see below. I have been wanting to make the jacket for years! A fellow Haute Couture member gave me the pattern as she felt that "it looked like" me :)

I'll be using this fabulous piece of wool. The contrasting collar will be in a solid navy blue wool or velvet. I'll decide that once I get a little closer to adding the collar. 

I just love the instructions. Not something you see in many patterns today. While looking at the pattern, I told Pearl that this was a time when we used the term, investment clothing. 

On the label of the pattern it says;

Straight from Paris to you - the fashion in this envelope. Your Paris Original was selected by Vogue at the dramatic opening of the designer's collection, then flown to America where a line-for-line translation was put into pattern form. 

Each piece that is included in the pattern is quite lovely. 

I am especially excited about this new project. Anytime I get something lovely out of the deal, I'm happy!!! I'm excited also about being able to pass along a little of my knowledge, and hopefully help a new generation who has not had the opportunities that I had (home ec in high school) to advance her skills. And too, I hope that there will be a little something to glean for all of you who stop by the blog :)

Happy Sewing!

Rhonda          

Monday Morning Inspiration/When The Flood Gates Break!

Some of you may remember from earlier this summer that I put myself on a very restrictive fabric buying diet...no new fabric until after August 1st. Well, I did okay. But, I did buy the tea towels that I designed from my painting, and I also purchased the mirrored yardage. I am also cleaning up my studio. Those posts will resume soon. The doctor had asked that with this second eye surgery that I be particularly careful about not picking things up, and bending over. Tomorrow is freedom day, no more drops, and back to life as usual :)

Over the weekend, with my no fabric moratorium being over, I took a trip up to Gayfeather Fabrics in Madison, WI along with 5 other friends. We had a blast!!! 

I actually showed some restraint and picked out pieces that I knew I would make up quickly. I'll share more later, but this piece was especially fun...

Virginia had these wool panels that I thought were especially interesting. I decided to purchase 2. At just $5.00 per panel, a steal!

I wanted something fun to go with the panels. Found the piece above, went back and forth about it.

Then I flipped the fabric over to the so called "wrong side," and I loved it! I will be making the jacket below. The panels will be a skirt, just not exactly sure of how it will be executed.

If by chance you noticed the top I am wearing in the first picture, it was a gift, and what an amazing gift!!! Totally unexpected. I came home last Thursday and found a box waiting for me. Becky of Trial Balloons had sent an amazing treasure chest of fabrics. Included in the box was the top.

I had sent her the small piece that you see, on the bottom left of the top in the top left picture. It was a piece that a friend of mine had given me. It came from an antique kimono. Becky had the Kung Fu Bunny. What a hoot! Take note of the hand stitching she did around the edges. 

  

Love how the back was pieced, and if you look closely, on the back of the top, there are 3 small red stitches. Such a sweet touch.

Just a few of the other special pieces that were in the box...

The piece below did not photograph all that well, so much prettier in person. It's double sided. The pieces aren't large, but what a special accent they will be!

This piece is about 12" wide, but rather long, so another beautiful accent piece.

Her son had brought this back to her from China. She said that the colors were just not quite her, but thought I would enjoy it. I do! What I think I am going to do with the piece is actually use the back side for an unlined jacket. That way, when I take the jacket off, you'll see the amazing inside! 

I also want to share this sweet gift that my friend Sue gave me,

She didn't make the bag, but did the embroidery. It was the perfect accessory for our Gayfeather shopping trip. What I especially like about the bag is that it has snaps so the top can be closed up a bit. 

So yes, the flood gates broke ;) I can now buy fabric once again. But, my break gave me some space, a chance to really look at what I have, cherish what I have, and think first before I buy.  

Before I go, I want to share my shawl. This is the Honeycomb  Wrap from Purl Soho. I was seeing honeycombs in my sleep before it was over :/ But, it's done, I'm happy, and I can't wait to wear it! Now all I need is some cold weather ;) 

Just had to make a note about this picture...

Conehead Berkley is in the chair ;) He has been with us now for 3 weeks. As we were getting ready to go to bed last night, my husband said, "I can't believe it, you've created yet another monster." He was referring to the fact that Berkley is already so very attached to me, and wants to be with me all-the-time. Oh well :) 

Have a fabulous week!

Rhonda

The Wednesday Showcase

Have you ever had a dream where you dream about something and think it's real, only to wake up and be disappointed that it was a dream?  I had that happen last night. I dreamed that I had this lovely garden room and in it were the loveliest hanging glass ornament/sculptures. Then I awoke and found out that this beautiful place only lived in my mind :( Now if someone could interpret my dream!!!, I would love to know what it meant as the dream was so beautiful. At the very least, it's nice to dream of beautiful things :)

I haven't done a Wednesday Showcase post for a few weeks, so we are due. As always, I have some wonderfully talented ladies to introduce to you. 

First up is Zoubi Zoubisou (cute), and you can find her blog HERE. She is French, but is currently living in Vancouver, B.C. She loves vintage, especially the 1940's-60's. And a little side note, she posts fabulous pictures.

She has truly found a style that works perfectly for her as everything she makes looks just so cute on her.

Just had to include her wedding picture. Of course she made the dress. Here's wishing them many, many happy years together.

This is a Burda Style dress. I just might have to give this one a try. 

And as you all know, I'm just a sucker for a picture of a girl and her dog :) Not only is the dog adorable, the dress is super sweet as well. Be sure to pop over and check out Zoubi Zoubisou's other makes. I think you'll enjoy seeing what she does.

Next up is Iris and she lives in Sweden. She loves to sew and she too has a love of vintage clothing. In fact, she has taken the 2016 vintage pledge. You can find her blog HERE.

As I scrolled through Iris' blog, I immediately fell in love with this skirt. Love everything about it.

 It's from Burda and here's the inspiration picture.

The blouse below is from a pattern company that I had never heard of, Record. I love how something so vintage can look so now. 

Another Burda pattern. Love the pants. And get this, she basically just made them and slipped them on. I call those magic pants!!! 

And finally, I just had to include this sweet picture. The pattern matching deserves to be celebrated. Such a beautiful job.

Well, I think these two ladies are sending us off dreaming of wonderful projects to make :) 

Have a wonderful day!

Rhonda

Sleeves On Saturdays

So sorry about being so late today. I bought a beautiful piece of fabric while I was in Seattle to make pillow covers for my sofa. What I thought was going to be a make it in a minute project turned into, I must confess, hours. First of all, I missed calculated on the fabric, so I didn't have enough to cut the front and the back from the same fabric. Okay, make it work, I tried a number of possibilities and then I remember two pieces of beautiful vintage ribbon that a friend had given me. I have searched and searched and searched and I have yet to find the ribbon. It's here, just where??? So, no ribbon and no new pillows. I did find a few things that I had forgotten about and can use, so all is not lost. After my meltdown over my computer issues this week, I am trying to find the positive in all things ;) I said trying!
Today's  post was a request. First of all, my apologies. Too often I assume far more than I should and I rarely explain how to put together the sleeves that I draft for you. It was requested that I explain how to put together the square shoulder sleeve

that I posted here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2012/05/sleeves-on-saturdays.html.

I decided to begin with this pattern. I could really use a spring summer robe. Look below at the back of the pattern. The long version is called a housecoat, the shorter version is called a brunch coat. I thought that was rather amusing!

I'm using this cotton seersucker fabric. The cotton will be cool in the summer and the seersucker means no ironing. Score!!!

I started with the sleeve from the pattern.

 The sleeve pattern was traced onto a piece of paper.

I removed the seam allowance from the sleeve head and drafted the extensions as directed here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2012/05/sleeves-on-saturdays.html

Now that the extensions have been drafted, it's time to start adding back the seam allowances. My pattern has 5/8" seam allowances for the armholes, so I added this back to the armhole area.

I added 1/4" seam allowances to the top of the extension. There is no need for a larger seam allowance.

 The top portion of the sleeve will also have a 1/4" seam allowance.

 The seam allowances have all been added and the pattern has been cut out.

 The sleeve has been cut out of the fabric.

 Fold the sleeve in half and match the 2 extensions. Sew together with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Below you can see the sewn 1/4" seam allowance and the notch I made at the center of my sleeve cap.

 Match the center of the seam to the notch.

 Remember that you are sewing a straight edge to a curved edge, so some clipping is in order. Just be careful that you make very small clips since you only have  1/4" seam allowance.

 The extension has been sewn to the cap of the sleeve.

 Looking down on the top of the sleeve.

The extension has been sewn and now we have a nice squared extension to the sleeve. 

Now I need to cut the rest of the "housecoat" and sew it up!
Hope this helps. If there is another sleeve that you would like to see more in depth, please let me know and I will be happy to take it step by step.