Saturday, March 8, 2014

Sleeves On Saturdays

So sorry about being so late today. I bought a beautiful piece of fabric while I was in Seattle to make pillow covers for my sofa. What I thought was going to be a make it in a minute project turned into, I must confess, hours. First of all, I missed calculated on the fabric, so I didn't have enough to cut the front and the back from the same fabric. Okay, make it work, I tried a number of possibilities and then I remember two pieces of beautiful vintage ribbon that a friend had given me. I have searched and searched and searched and I have yet to find the ribbon. It's here, just where??? So, no ribbon and no new pillows. I did find a few things that I had forgotten about and can use, so all is not lost. After my meltdown over my computer issues this week, I am trying to find the positive in all things ;) I said trying!
Today's  post was a request. First of all, my apologies. Too often I assume far more than I should and I rarely explain how to put together the sleeves that I draft for you. It was requested that I explain how to put together the square shoulder sleeve
that I posted here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2012/05/sleeves-on-saturdays.html.
I decided to begin with this pattern. I could really use a spring summer robe. Look below at the back of the pattern. The long version is called a housecoat, the shorter version is called a brunch coat. I thought that was rather amusing!
I'm using this cotton seersucker fabric. The cotton will be cool in the summer and the seersucker means no ironing. Score!!!
I started with the sleeve from the pattern.
 The sleeve pattern was traced onto a piece of paper.
I removed the seam allowance from the sleeve head and drafted the extensions as directed here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2012/05/sleeves-on-saturdays.html
Now that the extensions have been drafted, it's time to start adding back the seam allowances. My pattern has 5/8" seam allowances for the armholes, so I added this back to the armhole area.
I added 1/4" seam allowances to the top of the extension. There is no need for a larger seam allowance.
 The top portion of the sleeve will also have a 1/4" seam allowance.
 The seam allowances have all been added and the pattern has been cut out.
 The sleeve has been cut out of the fabric.
 Fold the sleeve in half and match the 2 extensions. Sew together with a 1/4" seam allowance.
Below you can see the sewn 1/4" seam allowance and the notch I made at the center of my sleeve cap.
 Match the center of the seam to the notch.
 Remember that you are sewing a straight edge to a curved edge, so some clipping is in order. Just be careful that you make very small clips since you only have  1/4" seam allowance.
 The extension has been sewn to the cap of the sleeve.
 Looking down on the top of the sleeve.
The extension has been sewn and now we have a nice squared extension to the sleeve. 

Now I need to cut the rest of the "housecoat" and sew it up!
Hope this helps. If there is another sleeve that you would like to see more in depth, please let me know and I will be happy to take it step by step. 

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  1. I love this sleeve and it's so interesting how it goes together! Thank you for showing this,Rhonda.

  2. Thanks aloooooooooooooot dear. ur a such a nice person.

    1. Hi Fahima, I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions, please ask and I'll do my best to help.

  3. Very helpful! That's a really pretty sleeve.

  4. Lovin' that Brunch Coat! How fun. I wish there was an index here for ALL the sleeves you have done. I have missed so many of them.
    Hugs, Joy

  5. tell u the truth, i had never seen this sleeve before.. haha thanks

  6. hi, what would be the best fabric to make this sleeve pls. i am goona try it. i have got a viscos fabric which is a flow y fabric. pls advice.

    1. Hi Fahima, the best fabric is one that has some body. Lighter weight or knits will need shoulder pads to give the sleeve it's shape.

  7. Hi! I'm a bit confused. Is this different from the square caped sleeve?

    1. This is the same sleeve, but here you see how I put the sleeve together so that it can then be inserted into an armhole. Hope that helps.