Saturday, June 28, 2014

The Patrick Kelly One Seam Coat

My eye infection has really given me a run for my money. I finally just gave up and went to bed. Sometimes bed is a very good thing :) I'm feeling better, a bit of a headache and my eye is still swollen, but I'm definitely on the mend. Yea!!! Thanks for all the well wishes.
A friend sent me a link(hey Miss P!!) that she thought I would enjoy, especially since I've been doing the Thrifty Thursday posts. It's the One Seam Coat that was designed by Patrick Kelly.

It really does have only 1 seam!  Here is a link to the Pattern Vault website where you can find all the information on the coat, http://blog.pattern-vault.com/2014/05/05/free-designer-pattern-patrick-kelly-one-seam-coat/.
As for downloading the pattern, I was not able to download it as it is larger than what my copy shop could do. Okay....there's always more than one way to do anything, so I came home and just figured it out.

Here is the pattern graph. The picture on the left is the front of the coat and the picture on the right is of course the back. Take a closer look at the photograph of the coat and you can see that it has a very large back pleat.
Okay, with that information, we can move forward. You will need about 4 yards of fabric to make this coat. The first thing that you will want to do is establish the back pleat. Take a look at the picture and you can see that the pleat ends at the shoulder. I am 16" from one edge of my shoulder to the other. Whether your shoulder measurement is 16"or not, I think this will be a good measurement for just about anyone. Divide the shoulder measurement in half. Along the selvedge of the fabric, find the center. Measure over 24" (3 x 8). Bring this point to the marked center and fold in half of the pleat. Do the same to the other side. You will now have a box pleat.
In the drawing, you can see that the back neck has been shaped. At center back, measure down 1 1/2" and mark. From center back, measure over 3 1/2" on either side. Draw in the back neckline and cut it out.
I finished my neckline with a bias strip.
To determine the length that you will need for the sleeves, measure from the center of your back to your wrist. On your jacket fabric, measure from center back, along the selvedge the measurement of center back to your wrist. Do this on both sides. Cut the fabric at this point.
Now for the 1 seam. This video shows you how to make a doll size version of the jacket, but it also shows in detail how to form the 1 seam.

If you would like to see the blog post that accompanies this video, you can find it here, http://fashiondollstylist.blogspot.ca/2013/02/the-cocoon-coat-homage-to-patrick-kelly.html

Now for my coat. My fabric was 60" wide, but I did not want a long version, so I cut off 15" in order to make it more of a knee length coat. Remember, the coat is cut along the length of the selvedge. The fabric that I used is a linen and silk blend, and as you can see, it is double sided. Great for this project as my coat is reversible. Please forgive my pressing, I could have, should have done a better job :(  At least you get the idea.
As you can see, the coat is a roomy cocoon shape.
 The reverse side.
To be honest, I like the reserve a little better as I really like the look of the inverted pleat rather than the sleek box pleat.

 Above, the inverted pleat side and below the box pleat side.
As soon as I'm feeling better, I'll take a few pictures of me in the coat. I'm excited about adding it to my wardrobe as it will work great with everything from jeans to, slacks, to a dress. Very versatile.The coat would be lovely made out of fleece or a boiled wool for cooler temperatures.
In order to make my coat reversible, I sewed the seam as a flat felled seam. It basically melts right into the fabric.
As I said, it's a nice roomy coat that will go over just about anything in your wardrobe. Give it a try, I think you'll enjoy having one in your wardrobe too! 

Share this PostPin ThisShare on TumblrShare on Google PlusEmail This


  1. Stunning, Rhonda! And those colors are perfect for you! Brava!

  2. Wow! I do love your version, and YES, I like the inverted pleat side best. I may try one from fleece for our relatively short winters here. Take care of that eye infection.

    1. This would be great out of wool fleece. You wouldn't even have to finish the edges! It's been kind of a tough week, but fingers crossed that the worst is over :)

  3. I downloaded this ages ago and promptly forgot about it - but Wow! Rhonda, it's worth making if it turns out like yours - Stunning.

  4. This looks so comfy and warm and is a great shape. Reminds me a it of the designs of Paul Poiret. Sorry to hear that you eye is still bothering you. Hope it gets better soon. Xx

    1. I didn't think about Paul Poiret, but you are so right!!

  5. Gorgeous! I love the color combo. I prefer the inverted pleat side myself.

  6. Love your coat, and would be stunning in a "glam" fabric! Sorry you've been dealing with that nasty eye infection, hope you are feeling better soon!

  7. This is stunning. I'd seen the download a while ago but forgot about it...won't forget this bright beauty though. Love that it's reversible, and love the design on both sides, but I think I also prefer the inverted pleat. What a show-stopping coat, though!
    And I hope that you'll be feeling better shortly, too.