The Gathered Insert Tutorial

Before too much time passes by, I thought I would do the tutorial for the shirred inset that so many of you asked for. I originally posted this top here.

I had this top that I made some time ago. I like it a lot, but for whatever reason,I just don't wear it that much so I decided that maybe I should remake it into something else. When so many of you asked for the tutorial, I decided that rather than make something new, I would just use this top. It had a turtleneck  collar which I have already removed.

So, to begin, I tried the top on to decide the shape of the neckline and how low I would like for it to be.  

The neckline was cut out. Remember, you'll be adding back to the depth, so go a little lower than what you would like the finished neckline to be. But be careful initially as you can always cut more away if need be. 

 Measure the circumference of the neckline. My neckline opening measured 37".

I had some scraps of this fabric and thought that it would be fun. But there is a little issue since it is a stripe, if I cut it  on the crosswise grain, I would have a stripe around the neckline. If I cut it on the straight of grain, I would lose the stripes when it is shirred. So I decided to cut it on the bias.

Before I made my final decision, I decided to cut a sample and give it a try. My initial piece was 2" wide. I liked the movement of the stripes, but I felt that the piece was a little too wide, so I decided to make the strip 1 1/2" wide.

Since the circumference of my neckline was 37", I knew that I needed at least 2 times that amount for the gathered band. I cut a strip that was 80" long. Once the strip was cut, I sewed the ends of my strip together making a circle. 2 rows of gathering stitches were done on either side of the band.

With right sides together, I folded my band in half and anchored it into my ironing board so that I could begin pulling up the gathering stitches.

I only pulled up 1 side. Since my neckline circumference is 37" and my band has been folded in half, I gathered the band until it measured half of 37, which would be 18 1/2".

Now the gathering is done, the band is opened up and placed against the edge of the neckline. I place the beginning of my gathering stitches at center back, but I do not begin sewing in the center as I may need to adjust my gathers once I sew around to the other side. So begin sewing a few inches over from where the gathering stitches begin.

 One side has now been sewn to the garment.

The next step can be done without a dress form, but it will be much easier if you have one. Simply flip the ruffle up and tack in place with a few pins.

Begin by pulling the shirring stitches from center back on 1 side only and arrange them evenly to center front. Once you are pleased with the shirring on 1 side, gather up the other side.

Pull all the shirring threads to the front and tie.

Cut a strip of fabric and sew to the edge of the gathering to finish the edge of the neckline.

 And that's just how simple it is to do a gathered insert.

I'm going to take the sleeves off of the top and redo them. I'm thinking that I'll make a shorter sleeve and do a gathered insert as a band around each arm. I'll let you see it when I'm finished.
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Rhonda