Saturday, January 11, 2014

Drafting The Basic Front Bodice, Master Sewing and Design Program

Begin by drawing a right angle and labeling the corner as point A.
A to B is 1/12th of your bust measurement minus 1/4".
B to C is 2 3/4". From C, draw a right angle line down 3/4". Connect B to D and extend the line.
A to E is 1/2 of shoulder to shoulder measurement. To find point F, draw a right angle guideline down from point E.
A to G is 1/12th of bust measurement. Draw a right angle out from point G.
Draw a right angle down from B and connect to the right angle drawn from G. Mark this point H.
Connect B and G with a straight line. On B-G line, draw a right angle to point H and mark as point I.
Divide H-I line into 3 equal sections. Mark the point nearest I as J.
Using your French curve, draw a smooth line from G to B and through J.
A to K is 1/6 of bust measurement plus 2". Draw a right angle line out from K. K to L is 1/4 of bust measurement plus 1/2" for ease.
A to M is shoulder to waist measurement. Draw a right angle out from M. M to N is equal to  
K to L line. Connect L to N.
Divide A to K in half and mark as O. Draw a right angle out from O. O to P is half of front high bust measurement.
Draw a right angle line down from P to K-L line. Mark as Q.
Divide P-Q line into 3 equal sections. Mark points as R and S.
Connect R and L with a straight line. From R-L line, draw a right angle to point Q and label this point T.
Divide the T-Q line into 3 equal parts. Mark point nearest T as U. Using a French curve,  draw a smooth curved line from R through U to L.
Connect F to R with a slightly curved line.
K to V is 1/2 of bustpoint to bustpoint measurement. Draw a right angle line down from V to M-N line and mark this point as W.
Measure down from point B your shoulder to bust point measurement. Mark as X on V-W line.
Congratulations!! You have now drafted a basic front bodice.
Set this aside for the time being. The next step will be to draft the back bodice. Once the back and front bodice's have been drafted, we will then use the basic bodice patterns to draft the fitted bodice.

17 comments:

  1. Thanks! This is so fun, maybe I will stop buying patterns! Will you do the sleeve too? That is what really messes me up.

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    1. Yes, I will be doing the sleeve. But I need to do the bodice first so the we have something to fit the sleeve to.

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  2. Once again, your generosity and ability blow my mind! I hope to follow along. Thanks so much!

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  3. Woot woot! Thank you so much for this great information. I've come to believe that fitting is my biggest nemesis in sewing for myself. I will be following along and look forward to the learning experience. Thanks again!

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  4. Wow - my BIL asked me to measure a straight rectangular deck and order decking accordingly and I managed to mess that up. I don't think taking measurements and drafting is for me. I will leave it to the clever people. Very interesting thought to see how it all works out.

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  5. Thanks so much for this Rhonda. I want to try this but picture 7 is confusing. I don't see how dividing line BG in equal parts gets you point J ??Sorry. It's probably evident but not to me!

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    1. Hi Diana, I will address your question when I do my next post this afternoon.

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    2. Diana, I found my mistake and corrected it. Take a look back at the instructions for the neckline and I think it will now make sense. I had a dear lady from Sweden email me and point out what I had done. I drafted it correctly, but typed in the wrong letters and just couldn't see what I had done. So sorry.

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  6. Woo hoo!!! Look at all that MATH!!! This is a fabulous way to show my budding "fashionistas" the importance of Geometry and fractions! Thank you for walking us through this, it had to have been so time consuming to take all the pics along the way and then write out all the instructions!

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    1. Let me know if you might like for me to come and give a talk to your students. I can appeal to the kids with aviation and fashion. Both use math!!

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  7. AWESOME! HOW did you learn all this stuff? I have studied fit and drawing my own patterns, but I've never done this. I have done it with pants, however. I learned pants from Margaret Islander. I love to learn. THANK YOU so much for all your hard work teaching us. Really! I KNOW how much time it takes.
    Hugs, Joy

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  8. Amazing! It's intriguing how many measurements are based on the bust.

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  9. Oh my God. That looks like Math.

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  10. Sister Marie Angela told me I would use all that geometry!

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  11. If I have really, really straight shoulders and I change the D measurement to be 1/4", do I have to change anything else or will it mess up anything that I do later (like the sleeves)?

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    1. Go ahead and give it a try. The worst that will happen is that you may have to take up the shoulders a bit in the fitting. This will not be a problem with the sleeves.

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  12. I would be late to the game. Anyway this looks a like how Chic does it in her youtube videos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5K4Ymc9kR6I to only problem is that she uses body measurements to make a dress without adding functional ease that I can see. But I'm looking forward to seeing the next installment.

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