Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Drafting The Basic Back Bodice, Master Sewing and Design Program

I have an apology to make. In the first drafting post for the front bodice, I drafted the neckline curve correctly, but gave instructions to equally divide the wrong line for the curve. Thankfully, I have the most wonderful followers and my mistake was brought to my attention. I have made the correction to the written instructions, so if you copied off the original instructions, please go back and find the corrected version. Also, please note that I have labeled the drafting posts with pattern drafting, Drafting Basic Bodice and Master Sewing and Design professional Certificate program. By clicking on any of these links at the bottom of the posts, you should be able to easily find all of these posts. Remember, drafting a basic bodice, skirt and sleeve is part of the Master Sewing and Design Program. The difference with the program is that you will need to do this for a client. If you are thinking that you might like to work through the process and earn a certificate, making the basic slopers for yourself is a perfect place to start. You can learn so much by fitting your own body.
If by chance you find something that doesn't make sense in the instructions, please email me at sewbussted@yahoo.com. As much as I try to proof read my work, sometimes I miss things, so letting me know is a great help.
I had hoped to do a post on taking my measurements yesterday, but my day got away from me. I should be able to get this post up later today. I think it will help greatly to see how I take my measurements. In the meantime, here are the instructions for
Drafting the Basic Back
Draw a right angle and mark the corner as A.
A to B is 1/12th of bust measurement minus 1/4", the same as for front.
B to C is 2 3/4". From C draw a right angle down 3/4" and mark as D.
Connect B to D and extend line.
A to E is 1/2 shoulder to shoulder measurement. From E draw a right angle guideline down to extended line and mark as F on B-D line.
A to G is 3/4".
Draw a right angle line down from B and out from G. Mark corner as H.
Divide G to H into 3 equal sections and mark I nearest H. Connect B to I with a smooth curved line.
G to J is 1/6 of bust measurement plus 2". From J draw out a right angle line. J to K is 1/4 of bust measurement plus 1/2" for ease.
G to L is back length. Draw a right angle line out from L. L to M equal J to K.
Connect K to M.
Divide G to J in half and mark as N. Draw a right angle out from N. N to O is 1/2 of Across Back measurement. (For Across Back Measurement, refer to Taking Measurements)
Connect F to O with a slightly curved line.
Draw a right angle down from O to J-K line and mark as P.
Divide O-P into 3 equal sections and mark section closest to O as Q.
Connect Q to K with a straight line.
From K-Q line, draw a right angle to P and mark R on Q-K line.
Divide P-R line into 3 equal sections and mark section closest to R as S. Using a French curve, draw a smooth curved line from Q through S to K.
Congratulations, you have now drafted a basic back bodice. Using the basic front and back bodice, we will now begin the process of drafting the fitted bodice. Once the fitted bodice has been drafted, we will then begin the fitting process. Fun, right?!!

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  1. Thanks Rhonda. I got a book on draping for Christmas, so between it and you, I should be able to knock up some patterns of my own. Well, maybe........

    1. You are such a wiz at everything you do. I bet fabulous things will be coming out of your studio in no time. BTW, you've inspired me to finally tackle a sports coat for my husband.

    2. No apologies. I'm rather excited about it. He so appreciates everything I do for him, so a sportscoat is going to earn me some huge points ;)

  2. You're such a giving person Rhonda. Having your own bodice block is a great resource for any sewer.

  3. Hi only now I saw the whle tutorial on fitted. thanks pls. dont publish the earlier comment. pls. show the sleeve as well. thnaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaks

  4. Am just encountering your tutorial. Ma'am it's been amazing following your blog. You did a wonderful job and are a true inspiration. Love you always

  5. Wow. In all my searching for some months now, I've not come across a blog whose tutorials are as simple, explanatory and 100% forthcoming as yours. Thanks a million. I've been sewing for a while but never drafted a bodice piece myself before. This is wonderful. Thanks again