Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Drafting The Back Fitted Bodice

For many, drafting a pattern seems like a deep, dark, mystery. Hopefully, you are beginning to see just how simple it really is. What I would like to do is continue on with this series throughout the year. Once the bodice is drafted, we'll draft a sleeve and a skirt. Once we get a good fit, we can then move on into drafting fun designs. After all, that is what it is all about!! Now I say we, sadly this is not a classroom situation and I cannot personally fit each and everyone of you, so as I've said, for now, you'll only be able to see the changes I make in my own pattern. When I move to drafting a basic sloper for a client which is required by one of the modules for the Master Sewing And Design Certificate Program, you will then be able to see me fit another person which I'm sure will be interesting. That won't happen until later this year.
Today we will be drafting the fitted back bodice pattern.
Begin by tracing the back basic bodice pattern.
Transfer the J-K line from basic back bodice and label it as A-B.
Mark C at center back waistline.
C to D is 1/4 of waist measurement plus 1" for the dart.
Connect B to D.
Measure between C and D and find the center. Draw a right angle from C-D line at center point to A-B line. Mark this point as G.
E and F are 1/2" on either side of line G.
Measure down 1" from G and mark as H.
Connect E and F to H.

Our next step will be to adjust the front fitted bodice side seam and and true our darts. Once this is completed, we'll add seam allowances and begin the fitting process.

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  1. Thanks for taking the time to do this... very helpful.

    1. I'm so happy. It will all make more sense once we move into actually drafting a pattern.

  2. Thank you so much for doing this series. :) It has been very informative. Would it be presumptuous of me (and I know I'm jumping ahead a bit too!) to ask if in the future you would be willing to discuss how patterns such as Marfy 3069 or Style Arc's Pippa dress are drafted to fitted in back, yet have no darts. I've been assigning myself some drafting exercises, and after stumbling across this shape I spent several nights scratching my head as to how to achieve this. I assume they use a shaped back seam, but drafting it without draping is what is boggling me. In any case, thank you once again.