Saturday, April 30, 2016

Sleeves On Saturdays/Stylized Gathered Sleeve

I have had this sleeve in my file for quite some time. It's such a pretty sleeve and would look so nice on everything from a t-shirt to a dress. So, very versatile. I had found a full length picture of the dress, but for the life of me, I was unable to find it this morning. I'm only giving you the drafting instructions for the sleeve today. Next Saturday I'll be back with a sample of the sleeve along with a sample of the Bell Shaped Sleeve that I did HERE. Hopefully I will have found my picture of the entire gown by then!

I'm calling this sleeve;

The Stylized Gathered Sleeve

It's really quite easy to do, but it does have a number of steps. So here we go!

Begin with a straight sleeve pattern.

Determine the length of your sleeve.

Draw in the diagonal style lines. The lines radiate from the notch points on the front and back of the sleeve.

The gathering that goes across the sleeve begins approximately 1 1/2" from the top edge of the sleeve. The gathered area is approximately 4" wide. Place notches 1 1/2" down from the top of the sleeve and then 4" down from the top notch. Use a single notch on the front and double notches on the back. 

Cut the side sections away from the center section.
Divide the gathered area into 4 equal sections. Be sure to number each section of the sleeve.

Draw a guideline on a piece of paper. 
Cut each section apart and spread evenly matching the center grainline to the guideline.
The spread between each section should be approximately 1".

The pattern for the center gathered area has now been established. Be sure to transfer the notches so that you will be able to perfectly match the enter section to the side sections of the sleeve.

Now to establish the gathered cap. 
We do not want to gather the entire cap, only the center section.
Begin by squaring a line across from the top notches of the center section that will be gathered. 
From the center of the sleeve cap, measure over approximately 1 1/2" to 2" on either side of the cap. Draw a diagonal line down to the squared line that we have just established. 

Divide the center section into 3 sections on either side of the center of the cap. Be sure to number each section as you see below.

To spread the cap and establish the gathering, begin by cutting from the top of the cap on the center line to the squared line and then across to either side of the sleeve. When cutting to the side of the sleeve, be careful to cut to the edge but not through.
Now cut from the top of the cap to the squared line of each section. 
Draw a guideline line on a new piece of paper and match the grainline of the sleeve to the new guideline. 
Spread the sections of the sleeve as equally as you can. Notice that the sleeve cap rises at the squared line that was established.

The rise in the cap that happens when the cap is spread will cause the top of the cap to be higher. You may want to raise the cap a little more. Do this by adding 1" at the center of the cap and blending back to where the beginning of the spread began.

The final pattern for the sleeve.

Be sure to establish the notches on the cap of the sleeve. The notches that are on the top of the cap are for the gathering. As you can see below,  the notches should be where the gathering was established. 

Just follow the steps, and the sleeve should come together easily.
Have fun!

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  1. Tell us more about where you found this dress? It's beautiful! From a movie?

  2. Believe this dress is Carolina Herrara fall 2013. I've admired this dress for some time, think I have seen Dita Von Teese wearing a shorter version. Rhonda, thank you for a great pattern cutting tutorial!

  3. Hey Rhonda, thanks for the sleeves. Trying to send you the full picture of the dress but i can't seem to paste it here :(

  4. Thanks for this sleeve pattern. I will post my dress when I'm done.

  5. Thank you for this tutorial. The sleeves in the first picture looking so cute!

  6. I just happened to find your blog. Thanks for this tutorial. I have not sewn any clothes in years, but seeing this tutorial makes me want to give it a try again. This was so easy to understand, and such a beautiful sleeve.

    1. If I can tempt someone back into sewing, then I have done a really good thing :)

  7. Thanks for then pattern. Should the pleats on the front side be in the same direction as that of the back or in opposite directions?

    1. They should be in the same direction.

    2. Hermosa manga, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos.

  8. Hermosa manga, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos.