The Magic Bias Dress From Fashion In Harmony/Construction Tips

Just a quick note to let you all know that the new post is up for the Magic Bias Dress on the Sew News blog, and you can find it HERE. In the header it says that this week is about color blocking. We actually talked about color blocking in last week's post. This weeks' post is about assembling the body of the dress. And, I give you a few of my tips for working with bias. Hope it helps.

I have now made 3 dresses, so I thought that I would do a blouse. I've shared before that I can have the attention span of a gnat, so I'm always thinking of something new to try. I decided to try something a little different and see how it turned out.
As you can see below, I folded up the extended end of the pattern and basically squared off the bottom of the pattern.

What I ended up with is some what of a tunic. The back is of course quite short where the "v" comes up, but I have another idea that I think will add a little interest and make this a super cute top to wear with tights. So stayed tuned. 

I had hoped to get a few pictures of me in this skirt today, but my day is getting away from me. I'm planning a little fashion show Friday post, so I'll get a picture of me in the skirt then.

The skirt is the Chinese Lantern Skirt also from Fashion In Harmony. After making the Magic Bias Dress, I was really intrigued with the skirt, and I was not disappointed. It is SO easy to make and it is such a cute skirt. I slipped it on the first time and I now want more! This is a a skirt that you could literally live in all summer. I didn't have the right drawstring, so what you see will not stay. I just had to stick something in so I could get the true effect of the skirt. The skirt is basically 2 circles, but there's a little trick that makes it drape the way it does.

The hem is simply finished with a piece of bias tape. The fabric is a very light weight double faced gauze. When I walk in the skirt, you get just the slightest glimpse of the orange. 

The back of the skirt. Take note of the hem. The asymmetrical aspect of the hem is what cases the skirt to drape so beautifully. 

You can find the skirt HERE on the Fashion In Harmony website.

For those of you who are making the Magic Bias Dress, I hope you are having fun with your creations. If you do make the dress, remember, I have a link up running on THIS POST, so be sure to post your pictures as I would love to see what you've done!

Happy Sewing!

Rhonda

Adjusting The Fit of The Magic Bias Dress

Good Morning All!
I received a question about how to adjust the fit of the Magic Bias Dress from Fashion In Harmony, and I was asked if there are side seams for adjusting. I decided to do a special post to answer the question as I thought an explanation might be helpful to many of you who are making the dress.

Just as a review, there are 3 main pieces to the dress. 2 sleeve patterns are included, but of course the sleeves is optional, the 3 main pattern pieces of the dress are not. 
There are no side seams in the dress. Look closely at the picture below. The largest pattern piece is the main body of the dress. You see the armholes and the back neck which are angled to the side. The smaller pattern piece in the top right hand corner is the front inset and includes the front neckline. Then there is a long triangular pattern piece. The long triangular piece is your key piece for adjusting the fit of the pattern.

A few notes on bias garments;
Remember that the bias grainline has the most stretch of the 3 grainlines in a piece of fabric. Typically, when a garment hangs on the bias, due to the stretchy nature of the bias grainline, it is not necessary to adjust the fit. With that said, bias garments look best if there are 4" to 7" of ease at the hips, at the VERY minimum, 3" of ease. Remember, we want the garment to skim the body and not cling or appear tight. 

If your shoulders are quite narrow compared to your bust and hip measurements, then it would be best to adjust the pattern. If your shoulders are quite narrow, choose your pattern size based on your upper bust measurement and then make adjustments to the pattern.

The key to adjusting the Magic Bias Dress is the triangular pattern piece. Simply draw a line down the center of the pattern piece. Cut down the center of the pattern piece. If you need to adjust for a larger bust measurement, spread the top portion of the pattern piece the amount needed to obtain the desired ease for the bust. Also spread for the hips. If you need to adjust for an even larger hip measurement, the spread may angle out at the hip area. 
If the bust is fine, but you need more in the hips, cut down the center of the pattern and then keep the top portion of the triangle pattern piece together but spread for the hips.   

So now you see more of the "magic" of this pattern. A bias garment that's cut on the straight of grain is revolutionary. The fact that you can adjust the pattern by simply spreading what seems like a rather non-important pattern piece is ingenious! 

If you have any other questions about the pattern, please ask and I will do my best to answer. 

The Magic Bias Dress Sew Along Begins!

Just wanted to do a quick check in this morning and let you all know that the sew along for the Fashion In Harmony Magic Bias Dress has begun. We decided to postpone it by a couple of weeks since we did an extra post on the pockets for the Pepernoot coat, and to give me just a bit of breathing room between the 2 sew alongs. Whew!!!

So, the first post is up and you can find it HERE on the Sew News blog.  

I always enjoy adding a little something extra to the sew alongs. For the Magic Bias Dress, I thought I would play around with some pattern blocking, as well as a little color blocking. For the pattern blocking, I've decided to use the coordinating prints that you see below. I purchased them quite some time ago from Britex in San Francisco. Love that store by the way :) Beautiful fabrics. Thank goodness I don't live in San Francisco!!! As you can see, depending on how the prints are assembled, they take on a very different look. I think I'm going to have fun playing around with them. For the color blocking, you'll have to wait until next week to see what I've chosen ;)

If you've stayed with me to this point, I have a nice little surprise for you. Sew News has a 20% off sale going on. The sale is store wide, so if you have not purchased your own Magic Bias Dress pattern, now's your chance to save a little. The Promo Code is 20SERGER Be sure to hurry though as the sale only runs through tomorrow, April 20th! You can find the Magic Bias Dress pattern HERE. The pattern is on back order so it won't ship until May 5, 2016, but at least you can take advantage of the sale. 

Fashion Show Friday/Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat and Sewn Square One Upline Jacket

It has been quite some time since I've modeled a garment for you, so I thought that I would do a bit of catch up today. There are so many that I haven't modeled, so just a few today, and more later.  

First up, the coat that I just finished for the Sew News Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat Sew Along. I absolutely adore this coat. First of all, I love the pattern, but I'm also so very pleased with how the coat turned out.

A view from the back.

The hood. When I initially made the coat, I didn't think I would use the hood. The hood has been great on cold days as well as rainy days.  

And finally, the lining.
If you would like to take a look at the sew along posts, you can find them HERE. 

I am about to wear out this coat!! It's much lighter than the cobalt blue flower coat, so great for a cool, but not cold day. It just seems to slip over just about every garment I have.   

 A view of the back.

And my fun lining!
Be sure to pop over to the Waffle Pattern website and check out Yuki's other designs. I could not be more pleased with this coat, so I feel quite safe to recommend ALL of her patterns :) 

A parting shot of the coat with the bag I made last December for a Fabulous Free Pattern Friday post. 

The Sewn Square One Upline Jacket that I did for the Sew News Sew Along. You can find the sew along posts HERE. When it comes to the 3 coats that I'm sharing with you today, I feel like a kid in a candy store when I look in my closet. I LOVE them all! I'm off to the airport in just a few minutes. We have a very bright and sunny day, but it's a bit cool, so this jacket will be perfect.

I love that the collar is quite versatile. I can leave it unzipped, zip it to the top, or zip it to the top and then roll it down. Even when it's zipped up, a scarf fits nicely inside the collar. A little difficult to see in the picture, but the style lines of the coat are also so very pretty.

The back of the jacket.

And finally, a parting shot of the lining. This was a vintage piece that's been in my collection for quite some time. So glad I had it :) 
You can check out all of the Sewn Square One patterns HERE. By the way, this jacket comes in 3 lengths. The jacket I'm wearing is the longest length.

So that's it for my little Friday Fashion show. I feel so fortunate to have these wonderful garments. Loved making them and loved the patterns :)

Happy Friday to you all!

Rhonda

A Few Notes On Wednesday/The Final Pepernoot Coat Sew Along Post

At about 3 o'clock this morning, both of my dogs were snuggled in close to me when a HUGE KA-BOOM!!! shook the house. It was just a big clap of thunder, but I laughed to myself as both dogs immediately left the bed and headed underneath. I always say that if we ever have a war, they'll be standing behind me saying, "shoot her first!"

Thank you so much to all who left a note on yesterday's blog post. Thank you for the lovely notes on my coat, and a very special thanks for your wishes of quick recovery. I am very positive that all will be well :) The only problem is that wearing a bra is not the best for a few days. I told a friend of mine last night that I felt as though I lost my protection against the world. I did go to my art class yesterday, but I wore a knit camisole, a thick t-shirt and a turtleneck top! Funny the things we'll do :)

For those of you who are following the Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat Sew Along that I've been doing for Sew News, the final post is up and you can find it HERE. I tried to take you step by step through the process of inserting the zipper. Success with your zipper will happen by paying close attention to the notches on the front band pattern piece. There is a notch that aligns with the neckline, and a notch that aligns with the waistline seam. I'm pointing to both of the notches in the picture below. Not only do you need to mark the notches on the front band, the notches should also be marked on each side of your zipper.

   

I also talk about the length of the zipper. I used a 30" zipper and you can see below that there is plenty of room for a longer than specified zipper.

Note too that I used a zipper that will unzip from the bottom as well as the top. This is a great feature that makes sitting in the coat a little more comfortable. Not that the coat is uncomfortable, it just gives the wearer the ability to have a little more room when sitting.

If you have any questions on finishing your coat, or inserting the zipper, please be sure to ask.

Since we added an extra post to the Pepernoot sew along, we're a bit delayed in starting the Magic Bias Dress sew along. As soon as that's up, I'll let you know.

Have a wonderful day. Enjoy your bras!!!
Rhonda

Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat Sneak Peek

It's a beautiful, but rather cold morning in my part of the world. It was 70 degrees on Sunday afternoon, and this morning...27, and that's not Celsius!!! Oh well, it is Chicago :) For those of you who may be coming to the Pattern Review Weekend in May, know to be prepared for just about anything!
I missed connecting with all of you yesterday. I've had a place on my back that I've been dealing with, a little concerning as it is right at my spine. The doctor had given me some cream to shrink the spot. It was smaller, but he decided that he didn't like how it looked, so out came the knife. It was rather painful, so I rested and took it easy yesterday afternoon. I'm much better this morning and I'll shortly be off to my art class. Always puts a smile on my face :)

Just wanted to give you a heads up on the final Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat sew along post. The Sew News blog is showing that the post is up, but when you click on the post, nothing is there. I'm sure it will be fixed shortly. As soon as the post is up, I'll be back with links. In the meantime, I thought I would give you a sneak peek at my finished coat. I still need to press it(please forgive me), but all in all, I am quite pleased with how it turned out.

I decided to use the black velvet for the center panel of the hood. There was no way that I would be able to match the pattern, so I thought that the velvet was a better alternative. In the above picture, you can see that I also lined the hood in the velvet. 

A friend of mine gave me a bag full of buttons that her mother saved from what must have been an incredible wardrobe. In one box, I found the black velvet buttons that I used on the sleeves. Just the perfect button.

I didn't get the coat finished in time for Easter, but the Haute Couture Club of Chicago is hosting its annual fashion show this Sunday, so the perfect place to wear the coat. Sadly, I won't be to be in the show this year. 

Have a wonderful day!

Rhonda

Meet Julianne Bramson, Master Mind of the Magic Bias Dress Pattern

In 2009 I was asked to help judge the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals/Threads Challenge. The challenge that year was all about seams. Judging was blind, meaning that the names of the contestants were removed from the final garments, only numbers were attached. For the judging, we were supposed to have a dressform, but none was available, so guess what!!!, I became the dressform! It was such a great experience and I loved seeing the creativity and ingenuity of the garments. The garment that stood out to me was a bias cut garment with mesh inserts. I was amazed by how beautifully the garment fell over my body and the precise execution of the seams, and especially the mesh inserts. There were a number of garments that made it to the final cut, but I fought hard for the bias dress. The mesh inserts and the precise execution, I felt, deserved the Best Overall distinction. A picture of the dress is included below. 

I was not able to stay for the evening fashion show, so I had no idea who the bias dress belonged to. It wasn't until a few years later when I attended a workshop in San Francisco hosted by Sandra Ericson that I met Julianne Bramson of Fashion In Harmony. I still had no idea that she created the bias dress. At some point during the workshop, something was said about bias garments and Sandra brought up Julianne's dress. It was then that I was able to put a face to this beautiful design. What a pleasure it was to finally meet her.

I was all the more excited when Sew News accepted my recommendation to include the Magic Bias Dress in this year's line up of sew along patterns. I think you too are going to enjoy the simplicity and elegance of this dress.

I am especially pleased to have the opportunity to introduce you to Julianne and let you take a peek into how her mind works.

From Julianne,

My primary source of inspiration for all of my designs is the pioneering work of Madeleine Vionnet.  Her designs, most especially those that utilize geometric shapes placed on the bias, have been a constant source of inspiration for me since I was first introduced to them by Sandra Ericson at the 2006 Association of Sewing and Design Professionals conference in San Francisco, CA. Below is the garment that started my obsession with bias cut garments.

Ironically, I studied Vionnet in college and even based my senior project on a Vionnet inspired design, but it was the math, the geometry that drew me into Sandra's class.   

The 2009 Association of Sewing and Design Professionals Threads Challenge was all about seams. I wanted to make a dress that would have mesh seams so it would look as if it was held together by air, by nothing.  I wanted seams that were sturdy, but in no way hindered the amazing drape of the velvet fabric.  I knew that making the dress on the bias would put the seams in interesting places.  My first dress was of a cream print silk charmeuse with ivory mesh for the seams.  I had planned to use nude mesh, but thought it looked a bit too "lingerie" for my taste.  The ivory was better, but the way I attached the mesh did not result in the professional look that I desired.  And, the whole dress ended up looking more boudoir and less evening. By the time I decided it was a dud, and I needed a new approach, I was running out of time.  That is why the velvet dress is constructed of several different fabrics, I simply did not have time to purchase more fabric.  As a result, I think it is much more interesting.  I love how it looks with the bright orange slip. Necessity truly is the mother of invention!

Below is the dress, featured in thread's Magazine.

The seaming in detail. 

As to the design of the velvet dress, it is all geometry.  I was inspired by two different patterns I found in my obsessive hunt for all things bias-cut and geometric.  One is a page from a vintage magazine about making a bias-cut slip using squares and quarter circles.

I used that for the inspiration for the squares at the waist and also for the skirt, although I instead used half-circles.  The upper portion of the dress was inspired by a pinwheel top pattern I found in a weaving magazine. 

I omitted the triangles at the wrist and turned the triangles at the waist into full squares to create seams to attach the skirt pieces.  It is an amazingly simple design.  What I love about it is how it fits so many different shapes and sizes of people. Bias cut garments truly are amazing and magical!

Thank you so much Julianne for sharing your design process with us.

Remember, I will be giving away a Magic Bias Dress pattern tomorrow, March 31, 2016. You have until tonight at midnight to get your name in for the drawing, so don't delay! If you would like a chance to win the pattern, leave a message HERE.

One last treat, if you are making the Magic Bias Dress, but would rather a different sleeve, you can find a free downloadable pattern for a Flitter Sleeve on the Fashion In Harmony website. Just click HERE.  

Enjoy!

Rhonda

Attaching The Pockets To the Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat

We decided to separate the pockets from the finishing of the Pepernoot Coat as combining everything would have made for a rather long post. Now you'll have a designated post to refer back to as you tackle the pockets. You can find the post HERE on the Sew News blog.
Since I have a large pattern in my fabric, it was very important that I match the flowers. A bit of a daunting task, but worth it in the end.

In this week's post, I walk you through creating the rectangular opening for the inserting of the zipper,

to the placement of the zipper, 

and finally, attaching the pocket to the coat. 

In the post I also talk about an alternative just in case you still feel a little overwhelmed by the entire process. But, I think you'll see that making the zippered pocket really isn't that difficult. 
As for me, I think I need to have a talk with myself. If only I had chosen a fabric with a less obvious pattern. Sometimes it seems that I enjoy giving myself an extra challenge ;) Whatever my next project will be, I won't include matching patterns!!!
Best of luck with your pockets!  

Enter To Win The Magic Bias Dress Pattern

It's a cloudy, rainy Thursday here in Chicago, but I can hear the cardinals singing outside my window, so all is well :) 

Last week, I announced the give away of the brand new April/May issue of Sew News. If you have not thrown your name in for a chance to win 1 of the 3 magazines that I have to give away, be sure to go HERE and get your name in before midnight tonight.

The announcement of a new sew along wouldn't be complete without a chance to win a pattern, so here's your chance!

The Magic Bias Dress from Fashion In Harmony. Fabulous pattern.

I always prefer to see a line drawing as it tells me so much more. The dress looks to be quite complicated... 

 but this is it! Just 3 pieces, and as I told you last week, what makes it magical is that the pattern pieces are all cut on the straight of grain. That's MAGIC!!! in my book. No trying to make sure that your pattern pieces are really on the bias grain.

Again, the dress I made for the magazine. Funny little note, my husband rarely visits his Facebook page. So I was rather shocked when he said that he saw the dress that I had posted, and then said, "I really like that dress." Believe me, that's quite a compliment coming from him :) 

So here's the drill;
If you would like a chance to win The Magic Bias Dress pattern,
1. You must be a follower of this blog
2. Leave a message on this post and let me know how you follow the blog.
3. Leave a message by midnight Wednesday, March 31, 2016

I will announce the winner next Thursday, March 31, 2016.
Next Thursday I will also have a wonderful guest post from the designer of Fashion In Harmony Patterns, Julianne Bramson. I think you will really enjoy having the opportunity to get inside her mind and see how she thinks.
Until then...
Good Luck!

I Love My Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat!

We're in the 3rd week of the Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat Sew Along and I am in love with my coat. Talk about flower power!!!

The fabric I'm using for the lining is from Tessuti Fabrics in Australia. when I purchased the fabric, I had a skirt in mind. Maybe serendipity, maybe just dumb luck, but when I began working on the coat, I immediately realized that the fabric was perfect for a lining. The only problem is that I only purchased a meter of fabric, so not enough to line the entire coat. But, I had a beautiful piece of black silk that blended perfectly with the fabric, so rather than ditch the idea, the sleeves are lined in black. 

The lining prior to the sleeves being added.

If you would like to check out the 3rd week of the sew along, you can find it HERE on the Sew News blog. 

I can't wait to finish my coat. I'm hoping to wear it on Easter Sunday. In our final post, we'll work on the pockets, attach the 

hood, insert the center front zipper and hem the skirt and sleeves.

If by chance you are working on a Pepernoot Coat, I hope you are loving yours as much as I am loving mine!

Yuki, the designer of Waffle Patterns has 3 new patterns available,

1. The Tosti Utility Jacket

2. The Dropje Hooded Vest

3. The Yuzu Raglan Coat

I think that one of my next projects will be the vest. Love the dart detail around the neckline.

Happy Sewing.

Rhonda

The New Issue of Sew News Is Out and I Have 3 To Give Away!

The brand new April/May issue of Sew News is out and I have 3 copies to give away!!! 

This is a great issue. If you don't already have a subscription, you don't want to miss this issue. So be sure to leave a message on this post for a chance to win a copy!

As always, there are free patterns. The fun Maritime Tote is one that I can't wait to make. You can download the free pattern HERE.

There's also a free pattern for this must have summer favorite, the Uptown Folk Peasant Blouse. You can download the free pattern HERE. The patterns are only free until May 31, 2016, so don't delay in getting them downloaded.

The peasant blouse article includes the templates for the embroidery along with all of the instructions. 

This issue also includes a great article from Joi Mahon on fit that I'm sure you will want to read. 

You'll also find my article on the next sew along. If you've never sewn a bias garment, then you are in for a real treat. The Magic Bias Dress from Fashions In Harmony is a beautiful pattern. So many feel that they can't wear a bias garment. You most certainly can! A bias garment falls beautifully over curves and just skims the body making the garment not only comfortable, but quite attractive. The trick to a well fitting bias garment is to cut it with the appropriate amount of ease. We'll talk more about this in future posts. 

What I especially love about this dress, and what makes it rather magical is that the pieces are all cut on the straight of grain. No cutting on the bias!!!! You can't go wrong. The pieces are cut on the straight of grain, but when sewn together, the pieces wrap around the body and hang on the bias. It really is a very ingenious design.

Below is a drawing of the dress from Fashions In Harmony.  

And below is the line drawing along with measurements, suggested fabrics and yardage.

 The neckline of the dress is finished with a French piping.

It really isn't piping at all. You actually take a piece of bias, sew it to the seam and then roll the bias strip over the seam edge and stitch it down.  

 The pattern includes 3 sleeve styles. I chose the tulip sleeve. So fluttery and pretty. A great sleeve for summer.

The hem of the dress is a simple rolled hem. 

Be sure to stay tuned as I will have a pattern to give away. I'll post the pattern give away next week. In the meantime, leave a message on this post if you would like a chance at winning 1 of the 3 magazines. 

This sew along will begin the week of April 4th, so it's coming right on the heels of the Pepernoot Coat sew along, but just in time for summer, at least on my side of the world :). I have 2 of these dresses made and I am really looking forward to making another. I'll probably live in them all summer!
I'll announce the winners of the magazines next Friday, March 25, 2016. So you have until Thursday March 24, 2016 at midnight to get your name in for the drawing.
Good Luck!!!