The Wednesday Showcase/Tany and The Magic Bias Dress

There's little I love more than showcasing the work of others. I can't remember when exactly, but I showcased the wonderful blogs, Couture et Tricot and Tany et La Mode a few years back. Since then I have loved seeing the incredible garments that Tany makes and I especially love her shoes!!!! I joke with her all the time that if I ever come to Portugal, she will need to lock up her shoe closet as that's the first place I'm heading ;) She has such a lovely sense of style and mixes her beautifully made garments with purchased pieces in such a manner that I think, makes all who visit her blog aspire to dressing even better.

Tany won the Magic Bias Dress pattern giveaway that I and Fashion In Harmony hosted just before the launch of the sew along. Tany did not allow any grass to grow under her feet in getting the dress made! She did such a beautiful job, so I asked her to do a guest post as I thought you would enjoy her journey of working through the pattern. 

Be sure to check out the video at the end of the post. Although the dress is on a dressform, it gives you an idea of how the dress moves on the body. 
Hope you enjoy the post, and a special thanks to Tany for sharing her thoughts on the pattern.

Hi to all sewing enthusiasts out there! I was invited by Rhonda to write a guest post about my experience making the Magic Bias Dress from Fashion in Harmony and I happily said yes. I’m quite honored to be addressing Rhonda’s readers and I love her blog!

I first found out about this pattern through the giveaway hosted by Rhonda and the Sew News Magazine Sew-along. I am an avid sewer and I’m always on the lookout for new things to experiment with sewing-wise. When I saw the pattern I was fascinated by the fact that most of the seams are stitched on the straight of grain, in spite of the dress being cut on the bias. I was also quite fond of the one piece bias-cut tulip sleeves, as I think they are incredibly flattering and add to the femininity of the dress. 

I was hooked and ready to order the pattern, so imagine how thrilled I was on finding out that I had won the giveaway. When I got the pattern from Rhonda I started looking for suitable fabric right away and I found this 100% rayon (viscose) floral print at my local fabric store. It has a wonderful soft touch and drape. The flower print isn’t the obvious fabric choice for this dress because all the seaming detail would be lost in the print but I went with it anyway and I must say I’m glad I did because quite happy with the final result.

Regarding my impressions of the pattern, I only have good things to say; everything lined up perfectly and the instructions were very clear regarding the sewing procedures and the order of construction; the seams are numbered so there’s little room for mistakes. The success of the dress depends of course on the preparatory steps: cutting the fabric well laid out and perfectly straight with pattern grain lines parallel to the selvedges and avoiding distortion near the selvedges (either by placing the pattern pieces a fair distance from the selvedges and/or clipping the selvedges every 2-3 inches). Also be aware that the pattern is huge and the fabric is cut on a single layer layout (right side of fabric facing up) so it helps to have a large cutting table or enough space on the floor. After all the pattern pieces are cut and marked where needed, it’s good to keep in mind that the pattern includes 3/8” seam alwances on all seams, except the shoulders where the seam allowances are 1”. The fact that the main seams (those joining the narrow inset and the front yoke to the main dress piece) are cut on the straight of grain really made my job a lot easier because I didn’t have to worry about the fabric becoming distorted along these seams. I pressed both seams away from the inset and towards the front yoke because I decided to topstitch all seams with contrasting thread to highlight them and I thought it would look more balanced this way.

The remaining seams (neck and armholes) should be stabilized and the instructions offer a few possible ways to do this. I stay-stitched at 1/4” from the cut edge and also fused bias stay-tape to the neck and armholes; I also want to point out that the instructions include precise measurements for each section of bias tape needed, on each pattern size. For the shoulder seams I used strips of lining selvedge cut to the width of the front shoulders (measured on the paper pattern) and basted them to the back shoulder stitching line, easing the fabric slightly.

I really loved the neckline binding method in the instructions, called the French Bias Facing; again precise measurements for the bias-cut strip are provided. Same as Rhonda, I also think that a 1 1/2" wide strip may not be enough for this neckline binding treatment; a 2” wide strip is just perfect for the job.

When the body of the dress was complete, I was able to try the dress on and assess the fit, which was perfect for me. I am a size 14 and I cut size 12-14. But, I think there’s little chance of the dress not fitting, because the bias cut fabric will accommodate to your body shape. I also ended up with a slightly uneven hem but that was to be expected.

The one-piece bias tulip sleeves are my favorite detail on this dress; they hang beautifully and are so flattering in my opinion. I had no trouble at all attaching the sleeves to the previously stabilized armholes. I didn’t do this for this dress, but if you want to add a couture element to the sleeves, just add a silk organza sleeve-head: cut a 4” wide bias strip of silk organza, long enough to accommodate the sleeve cap from ease point to ease point, fold it length-wise  and baste to the sleeve cap on the wrong side (raw edges together) before stitching the two rows of ease stitches. You’ll find the sleeve will ease in much more evenly, and the folded organza adds a nice light support to the sleeve cap after it has been attached to the armhole.

The last step was hemming the dress evenly after letting it hang on the dressform for 48hrs. I trimmed out just the minimum to make it even and the length of the dress was just perfect for me (I am 5’7, by the way).

I LOVED sewing this dress and loved it even more when I tried it on. I made no alterations at all but fitting instructions are provided in the pattern instructions in case a large or small bust adjustment is needed (and these adjustments are surprisingly easy to make too!). I can’t wait to try this pattern with some other fabrics/prints (Rhonda’s versions are quite inspiring, do check them out if you haven’t already!), being aware that the fit/hang will change slightly according to the fabric’s characteristics. Color blocking is also an option and I already have a few ideas for upcoming versions of this dress.

All in all I rate this pattern a 10 out of 10, which also rates the very thorough instructions, diagrams and variations provided. I had a blast making this dress and I strongly recommend the pattern.

Thank you all for reading and Rhonda for hosting this article, Happy Sewing to all!

Finishing The Magic Bias Dress

Happy Wednesday Everyone!

It's shaping up to be a very busy week. I had to laugh a little yesterday as I was out at the airport, covered in grease. You may remember that I had a tire blow out on me while landing two weeks ago. The best part of the incident is that everyone is amazed by how well I handled it all and the decisions I made. Makes me feel rather good :) The mechanic could not believe that there was no damage to the airplane, the wheel is fine, the cover that goes over the wheel is fine. Great news. Now we are in the process of taking the airplane apart and doing the yearly maintenance check that has to be done. So here I was, covered in grease, by no means a fashion plate! But it keeps life interesting :) I should have taken a few pictures. I'll be back out there in a few days after the parts arrive, so I will share a little of the experience and get pictures.

So from one extreme to another....

The final post for the Magic Bias Dress is up and I am LOVING my new dress!!! I have a meeting to attend today and I would like to wear it, but it's 50 degrees here in Chicago. Better days are coming :) You can find the post HERE on the Sew News blog.

If you do decide to make the dress, by all means consider a border print tie-dye pattern. I think the effect is so pretty.

In the post, we go over the finishing details of the dress, the sleeve, creating the French Piping, and hemming. 

The French Piping method for finishing a seam is so lovely and I can see doing this a lot in the future on necklines and armholes. 

The Sew News post does not include the color clocked dress, or the tunic. I will be doing a follow up post when I announce the winner of the Bias Cut Blueprints book next Tuesday and I will include both of those pieces.

I've really enjoyed creating the dresses and doing the sew along posts. I hope I've been able to take a little of the fear out of creating a bias cut garment. Be sure to check out the Fashion In Harmony website for other patterns and inspiration. 

Remember too that I have a link up going on THIS post, so if you do make the Magic Bias Dress, be sure to share your pictures. The link up will be extended until the end of May, so get your dresses made, I would love to see them!   

Bias Cut Blueprints Giveaway/The Perfect Way To End a Sew Along!

This is a first!!! A giveaway at the end of a sew along!

Julianne Bramson, the designer of The Magic Bias Dress and Fashion In Harmony Patterns, would like to say a special thank you for making the Magic Bias Dress sew along such a success, so she is giving away one of her books, Bias Cut Blueprints. 

The book is a fabulous workbook for anyone who enjoys bias cut patterns and would like to take a stab at drafting a few of their own.

The book begins with an explanation of the bias garment, how to take measurements, how to calculate yardage, and many other very useful bits of information.

From there you are taken into the project section. Constructing bias tubes is discussed and very clear layouts are given so there is no guess work. 

The projects begin with very simple shapes.

Once you have mastered the simple projects, you can advance into the more complicated.

There is even a section devoted to combining techniques and designs.

 

You will also find templates for necklines and armholes, so as I said, there is no guess work with this book. Every aspect of creating a beautiful bias garment has been thought of.

Due to postage costs, this giveaway is only available to U.S. residents. So sorry, but there will be other giveaways in the very near future that will be open to all.

So if you would like a chance to win the book;

1. Leave a message on this blog.
2. You must be a follower of this blog.
3. You must have a U.S. mailing address.

I will announce the winner next Tuesday, May 17, 2016.

Good Luck!!!
Rhonda  

Adjusting The Fit of The Magic Bias Dress

Good Morning All!
I received a question about how to adjust the fit of the Magic Bias Dress from Fashion In Harmony, and I was asked if there are side seams for adjusting. I decided to do a special post to answer the question as I thought an explanation might be helpful to many of you who are making the dress.

Just as a review, there are 3 main pieces to the dress. 2 sleeve patterns are included, but of course the sleeves is optional, the 3 main pattern pieces of the dress are not. 
There are no side seams in the dress. Look closely at the picture below. The largest pattern piece is the main body of the dress. You see the armholes and the back neck which are angled to the side. The smaller pattern piece in the top right hand corner is the front inset and includes the front neckline. Then there is a long triangular pattern piece. The long triangular piece is your key piece for adjusting the fit of the pattern.

A few notes on bias garments;
Remember that the bias grainline has the most stretch of the 3 grainlines in a piece of fabric. Typically, when a garment hangs on the bias, due to the stretchy nature of the bias grainline, it is not necessary to adjust the fit. With that said, bias garments look best if there are 4" to 7" of ease at the hips, at the VERY minimum, 3" of ease. Remember, we want the garment to skim the body and not cling or appear tight. 

If your shoulders are quite narrow compared to your bust and hip measurements, then it would be best to adjust the pattern. If your shoulders are quite narrow, choose your pattern size based on your upper bust measurement and then make adjustments to the pattern.

The key to adjusting the Magic Bias Dress is the triangular pattern piece. Simply draw a line down the center of the pattern piece. Cut down the center of the pattern piece. If you need to adjust for a larger bust measurement, spread the top portion of the pattern piece the amount needed to obtain the desired ease for the bust. Also spread for the hips. If you need to adjust for an even larger hip measurement, the spread may angle out at the hip area. 
If the bust is fine, but you need more in the hips, cut down the center of the pattern and then keep the top portion of the triangle pattern piece together but spread for the hips.   

So now you see more of the "magic" of this pattern. A bias garment that's cut on the straight of grain is revolutionary. The fact that you can adjust the pattern by simply spreading what seems like a rather non-important pattern piece is ingenious! 

If you have any other questions about the pattern, please ask and I will do my best to answer. 

The Magic Bias Dress Sew Along Begins!

Just wanted to do a quick check in this morning and let you all know that the sew along for the Fashion In Harmony Magic Bias Dress has begun. We decided to postpone it by a couple of weeks since we did an extra post on the pockets for the Pepernoot coat, and to give me just a bit of breathing room between the 2 sew alongs. Whew!!!

So, the first post is up and you can find it HERE on the Sew News blog.  

I always enjoy adding a little something extra to the sew alongs. For the Magic Bias Dress, I thought I would play around with some pattern blocking, as well as a little color blocking. For the pattern blocking, I've decided to use the coordinating prints that you see below. I purchased them quite some time ago from Britex in San Francisco. Love that store by the way :) Beautiful fabrics. Thank goodness I don't live in San Francisco!!! As you can see, depending on how the prints are assembled, they take on a very different look. I think I'm going to have fun playing around with them. For the color blocking, you'll have to wait until next week to see what I've chosen ;)

If you've stayed with me to this point, I have a nice little surprise for you. Sew News has a 20% off sale going on. The sale is store wide, so if you have not purchased your own Magic Bias Dress pattern, now's your chance to save a little. The Promo Code is 20SERGER Be sure to hurry though as the sale only runs through tomorrow, April 20th! You can find the Magic Bias Dress pattern HERE. The pattern is on back order so it won't ship until May 5, 2016, but at least you can take advantage of the sale. 

The Winner of the Magic Bias Dress Pattern

Good Morning All!
It's a typical early spring day in Chicago, dark and rainy. To be honest, I'm very happy as we had so little snow this winter. We really need the moisture in order for the spring flowers to have any vibrancy. At the moment, I have a bed full of spring crocuses that are blooming. Their tiny little blooms are so lovely. They are like an announcement of what's to come :)  
But, enough about gardening and weather!
So many threw their names in for the drawing of the Magic Bias Dress. I think this has been the most popular of all the sew along giveaways. Everyone who left a message seemed so excited. I just wish I had a pattern for each and every one of you, but sadly, there's only one :(
So...The winner of the Magic Bias Dress pattern is....

Congratulations Tany!!!! 

Be sure to email me at sewbussted@yahoo.com so I can get your pattern out to you.

For those of you who didn't win, you can find the pattern HERE, and you are always welcome to order directly from the Fashion In Harmony website HERE. 

Fashion in Harmony has published a wonderful book entitled Bias Cut Blueprints. Click HERE for a preview. It's a fabulous book, actually a workbook. You'll be amazed by what you can do with a tube.

Wishing you all a wonderful day!
Rhonda

Meet Julianne Bramson, Master Mind of the Magic Bias Dress Pattern

In 2009 I was asked to help judge the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals/Threads Challenge. The challenge that year was all about seams. Judging was blind, meaning that the names of the contestants were removed from the final garments, only numbers were attached. For the judging, we were supposed to have a dressform, but none was available, so guess what!!!, I became the dressform! It was such a great experience and I loved seeing the creativity and ingenuity of the garments. The garment that stood out to me was a bias cut garment with mesh inserts. I was amazed by how beautifully the garment fell over my body and the precise execution of the seams, and especially the mesh inserts. There were a number of garments that made it to the final cut, but I fought hard for the bias dress. The mesh inserts and the precise execution, I felt, deserved the Best Overall distinction. A picture of the dress is included below. 

I was not able to stay for the evening fashion show, so I had no idea who the bias dress belonged to. It wasn't until a few years later when I attended a workshop in San Francisco hosted by Sandra Ericson that I met Julianne Bramson of Fashion In Harmony. I still had no idea that she created the bias dress. At some point during the workshop, something was said about bias garments and Sandra brought up Julianne's dress. It was then that I was able to put a face to this beautiful design. What a pleasure it was to finally meet her.

I was all the more excited when Sew News accepted my recommendation to include the Magic Bias Dress in this year's line up of sew along patterns. I think you too are going to enjoy the simplicity and elegance of this dress.

I am especially pleased to have the opportunity to introduce you to Julianne and let you take a peek into how her mind works.

From Julianne,

My primary source of inspiration for all of my designs is the pioneering work of Madeleine Vionnet.  Her designs, most especially those that utilize geometric shapes placed on the bias, have been a constant source of inspiration for me since I was first introduced to them by Sandra Ericson at the 2006 Association of Sewing and Design Professionals conference in San Francisco, CA. Below is the garment that started my obsession with bias cut garments.

Ironically, I studied Vionnet in college and even based my senior project on a Vionnet inspired design, but it was the math, the geometry that drew me into Sandra's class.   

The 2009 Association of Sewing and Design Professionals Threads Challenge was all about seams. I wanted to make a dress that would have mesh seams so it would look as if it was held together by air, by nothing.  I wanted seams that were sturdy, but in no way hindered the amazing drape of the velvet fabric.  I knew that making the dress on the bias would put the seams in interesting places.  My first dress was of a cream print silk charmeuse with ivory mesh for the seams.  I had planned to use nude mesh, but thought it looked a bit too "lingerie" for my taste.  The ivory was better, but the way I attached the mesh did not result in the professional look that I desired.  And, the whole dress ended up looking more boudoir and less evening. By the time I decided it was a dud, and I needed a new approach, I was running out of time.  That is why the velvet dress is constructed of several different fabrics, I simply did not have time to purchase more fabric.  As a result, I think it is much more interesting.  I love how it looks with the bright orange slip. Necessity truly is the mother of invention!

Below is the dress, featured in thread's Magazine.

The seaming in detail. 

As to the design of the velvet dress, it is all geometry.  I was inspired by two different patterns I found in my obsessive hunt for all things bias-cut and geometric.  One is a page from a vintage magazine about making a bias-cut slip using squares and quarter circles.

I used that for the inspiration for the squares at the waist and also for the skirt, although I instead used half-circles.  The upper portion of the dress was inspired by a pinwheel top pattern I found in a weaving magazine. 

I omitted the triangles at the wrist and turned the triangles at the waist into full squares to create seams to attach the skirt pieces.  It is an amazingly simple design.  What I love about it is how it fits so many different shapes and sizes of people. Bias cut garments truly are amazing and magical!

Thank you so much Julianne for sharing your design process with us.

Remember, I will be giving away a Magic Bias Dress pattern tomorrow, March 31, 2016. You have until tonight at midnight to get your name in for the drawing, so don't delay! If you would like a chance to win the pattern, leave a message HERE.

One last treat, if you are making the Magic Bias Dress, but would rather a different sleeve, you can find a free downloadable pattern for a Flitter Sleeve on the Fashion In Harmony website. Just click HERE.  

Enjoy!

Rhonda