Make Your Own Detachable Accent Collar/Free Pattern

About 3 weeks ago, I did a Monday Morning Inspiration post on detachable, accent collars.   You can see the post HERE. So many of you enjoyed the post, so I thought I would do a pattern to share with everyone. A detachable collar is something that is fun year round and can change the most boring of outfits.

For the holidays, I did this super fun collar.  

This is the back side, so it's like having 2 collars in one.

Here, paired with a simple black wool knit dress.

What's fun about the collar is that it can be worn traditionally as above, turned to the side as below, and even turned to the back for another cute look.

You can download the FREE PATTERN HERE. Just a word of warning, there are 2 sheets. Sadly, I couldn't get the collar on 1 sheet of paper, so you will need a tiny bit of tape. Somehow, I downloaded the pattern twice, so there are actually 2 patterns in the file. You may want to select just the first 2 pages rather than all 4. 

To make the collar, you will need 3/4 yard of ribbon for the ties. You could also do a button loop and a small button if you would rather not have the ties. A hook and eye closure is another option. 

***1/4" seam allowances have been included in the pattern, so just cut and sew!

If you would like a video tutorial on making the collar, just let me know, I'll be happy to do one. 

The collars make great gifts, and they are fun to wear. Also a great way to use up scraps that are just too nice to not use.

Have Fun!!!

 Rhonda

Monday Morning Inspiration

Good Morning Everyone!! I'm back from a wonderful weekend in Nashville, Tennessee. You may remember that Helen Haughey asked me to help teach a weekend workshop on making the perfect sheath dress. Along with the class, we were treated to a private tour of the new exhibit at the Frist Museum, "Italian Style Since 1945." I'll share a little more about the exhibit in an upcoming post as it was such a treat and of course, I came home with the book!!

Last week I came across a number of collar examples that I thought were especially interesting, so I thought I would share them today. We've had other collar inspiration posts in the past. It seems that when it comes to collars, the possibilities are endless!

Here's a mandarin collar with what looks to be a detachable convertible collar.  

I think I've shared this collar in a previous post, but I think it's worth a second look. A shaped mandarin collar with a cut out detail and the added accent of the tie. Beautiful! 

 A double peter pan collar. Take note of the top collaqr and how it tapers to nothing in the back.

 A convertible collar with a seam. The added insert detail really sets off the collar.

Take a close look at this collar. The tips actually have origami type folds. So interesting. The picket is also quite interesting.

A simple convertible collar made a little more interesting with the staggering detail.

I may have shown this collar in the past, but again, worth another look as it is simply sensational. 

 The next 2 examples are from the same designer. The jacket has 2 collars and the blouse has 3.

 Two collars with the illusion of a third. Such a beautiful use of lace.

The next 2 collars are from the Pattern Magic books. I think these books are well worth the investment.

 Below is a collage of collars with decorative inspiration.

 Take a great piece of fabric, make a collar and wear it with everything from a simple sweater to a dress, or under a jacket.

 Here's another idea of detached collar using interesting details.
So, the next time you pull out that pattern to make a blouse, shirt, or jacket, don't just make the boring collar that's shown, spice it up a bit with a little something unexpected!

The Winter Coat Part 2

So many of you seemed to enjoy the coat inspiration post I did yesterday. I'm so happy that you did! One coat seems to have stood out to a number of you because of the collar.

It is a very pretty collar.

You may remember the outfit I did for the Passion For Fashion contest I participated in 2 years ago. The collar is bigger, but basically the same principle.

I have a vintage coat that I've had for some time that also has a similar collar.

 This collar is basically a very large shawl collar as you can see when it is opened up.

But here's what I love. To obtain the shaping, there are a series of darts all around the collar. Beautiful.

 The collar is actually hand sewn to the back of the coat.

This collar is rather over the top, but the collar on the white coat is very sensible and pretty. I will be more than happy to do a tutorial on drafting the collar. Let me know if this is something you would like to see. The perfect coat pattern for the white coat would be the Sewaholic Robson coat. I look forward to hearing your thoughts!

Sleeves On Saturdays

It has been brought to my attention that there are a number of sleeves that I have done for you that you've never seen on my body, so over the next few weeks, I will be modeling the sleeves for you. Not that I make the best model, but at least it gives you an idea of what the sleeve looks like on a body rather than just on my dress form.
You may remember this dress from last summer. I did a tutorial on how to draft the collar for Sew News. You can find that post here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2013/06/05/the-shawl-collar-tutorial-by-guest-blogger-rhonda-buss/

I did a tutorial on how to draft the sleeve here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/06/sleeves-on-saturdays.html

And here I am. If you saw the post I did last year, you may remember that I was in a quandary about what I would do for a belt. Well, I dug through my scarf drawer and I found the sash. I was so happy. Problem solved!

I never named this sleeve. We'll call it
The Stylized Shoulder Pleated Sleeve. 

I went back and forth about the length of the skirt and finally decided to leave it long since the dress has such a vintage feel.
I see that I need to do a little more pressing. All in all though, I really like the dress.     

So now you have an idea of what the dress looks like on a body. 

By the way, that's a big chain laying on the ground in the background. My husband has been working on a project and I didn't realize that the chain was there. If you didn't know what it was you might think that a big horse has been in my yard!!!

Hope you're having a lovely weekend.

Rhonda 

Drafting The Mandarin Collar

Today's post was a request from a lovely lady who lives in Sri Lanka. She has really embraced pattern drafting and is so excited about the process. She sent a picture to me of the drop shoulder sleeve that she drafted from my instructions and she did such a wonderful job. I'm really quite excited for her as learning to draft is a very uplifting experience. At least I think it is :)
There are a few methods for drafting a mandarin collar. I am going to share my preferred method.
I began with my trusty Butterick 5678 shirt pattern that I've used to draft a number of collars and sleeves.
Since I am starting with a pattern that has been developed for the attachment of a collar, I will not need to adjust the neckline. If you are starting with a bodice that fits close to the neck, you will need to adjust the neckline. Lower the center back 1/8" to 1/4" and the shoulder at neck edge, the same amount as you lowered center back. The center front should be lowered 1/4" to 1/2". Lower the shoulder at neck edge the same amount as you did the back bodice at the shoulder. The amount that you lower the neckline depends upon how much comfort you would like around the neckline as well as the design of your garment.
I personally like a shaped mandarin collar and I like to cut it on the bias if at all possible. The only time a shaped mandarin collar will not work is if you are using a stripe fabric.
To begin, I marked the 5/8" seam allowance around the neckline of my pattern.

I then measured from center back to the shoulder line along the seamline.

Then measure from the shoulder line to center front. With these 2 measurements we are now ready to draft the collar.

A mandarin collar can be as narrow as 1" or as wide as 1 1/2". The collar may be wider if you wish, but it will have a tendency to hit the chin.
Begin by drawing a vertical line for center back. From the center back line, draw a horizontal line the measurement of the back neck from center back to the shoulder line. Place a notch at this point. Determine the width of your collar and draw another horizontal line from center back.

From the shoulder notch, continue the line to center front. This measurement should be the amount measured from the shoulder line to center front on the neckline of your bodice. To develop the shaped collar, the center front line should be 2". Measure up 1/2" from the lower line and place a notch. At the top edge of the 2" line, measure over 1/2" and place a dot.

 Connect the notch at center front and the dot with a straight line.

 Connect the notch at center front to the shoulder notch with a straight line.

 Find the center between center front and the shoulder notch and place a mark at this point.

 From that mark, measure down 1/8" and place a mark.

 Connect the mark to center front and the shoulder notch with a slightly curved line.

 Using your ruler, measure up from the curved line the width of your collar.

 Now you can see the collar taking shape.

 Draw in the line.

The final pattern. 1/4" seam allowances were added around the entire collar pattern. Since I will be cutting my collar on the bias grainline, the collar is no longer on the fold, but one piece. There are notches for the shoulders and for center back. Cut 1 collar for the top and 1 for the under collar.

Once I have sewn my collar together, I like to edge stitch the under collar between the 2 shoulder notches.

Since I only added 1/4" seam allowances to my collar, I need to adjust the seam allowance on my bodice. I began by marking the 5/8" seam allowance and then measured up 1/4".

 3/8"was cut away from the neckline leaving a 1/4" seam allowance.

The final collar. Because the collar was cut on the bias, it sits very nicely around the neck. 

 The collar has a close fit to the neck, but there is still room for movement. 

Now you see just how easy it is to draft a shaped mandarin collar.
Good luck and happy drafting!
Rhonda

Linda's Raised Collar, It's Beautiful!

Good Morning Everyone!!! I am working on a new Fabulous Free Pattern Friday piece that I hope to post a little later today, but a shout out and a big thank you needs to go out to Linda of http://seamswell.blogspot.ca/2014/02/butterick-5678-modified-neckline.html. As I scrolled through a piece that she posted yesterday, I came across this top

and my first thought was, "wow I love that neckline!" Now in all honesty, I am very bad about scrolling through blogs and looking at the pictures. I guess I'm a picture kinda gal!! I've always loved picture books:) As I scrolled through, my name caught my eye and I was pleasantly surprised to see that Linda had purchased Butterick 5678. You may remember that I did a series of collar posts for Sew News and used this pattern as my base.

This is the collar I drafted for the tutorial.

Linda said that she was very happy with how the blouse turned out. I do love her neckline!

If you would like to check out the tutorial I did on the raised neckline, you can find it here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2013/05/28/rhonda-buss-the-raised-collar-neckline-tutorial/
As I said, I did an entire series of collar posts and you can find those here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/?s=Rhonda+Buss
Thanks so much Linda for taking a chance on the collar. I'm truly honored.
If by chance any of you give a sleeve or Free Pattern Friday piece a try, let me know. I always love to see what you've done and even more, I love to brag on your work!!!