Saturday, July 28, 2012

Sleeves On Saturdays

The Drop Shoulder Sleeve
This sleeve treatment lends itself to many design possiblities, yokes that extend into the shoulder, really decorative sleeves and so many other possibilities. 
 As you can see, there is no shoulder seam.
 The bottom portion of my sleeve is full and I added an elastic band to the wrist.
Begin by matching the front and back bodice at the shoulder.
Measure down 4" at the center of the sleeve. From the center point, measure over 5" on either side of the sleeve cap.
 Before cutting the sleeve cap away from the lower portion of the sleeve, add notches so you don't confuse the front and the back.
 Cut the sleeve cap away from the lower portion and cut the cap in half. Match the top of the sleeve cap at the shoulder of the bodice and the edge of the sleeve cap to the edge of the armhole.
 The final pattern for the front and back bodice. It isn't very clear in this picture, but be sure to round the shoulder so that there is not a point at the shoulder.
 The bottom portion of the sleeve. You can use this portion of the sleeve as it is or if you would like to add the fullness as I did,
 divide the sleeve into sections as I did below. Be sure to number your pieces.
My sleeve is a tapered sleeve so it needs to be straightened as I am showing below.
 Because we are adding the elastic cuff, we will need a little extra at the bottom of our sleeve so that the sleeve will not ride up the arm. 2" is a good amount.
 Cut the sleeves sections and spread them. You will want to begin by drawing a guide line on your paper. The center line will be spread evenly on either side of that line. So if you would like a 2" spread between your sections, you will spread the center line 1" on either side of the guide line.
The final pattern. Be sure to add appropriate seam allowances and the appropriate amount for your elastic casing to the bottom of your sleeve.
We will revisit this sleeve in the future. At this point I am just trying to lay the foundation for more complicated designs.
Hope you are having a wonderful weekend!

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  1. I have never ever seen a sleeve like that. I'm not sure it would be flattering for my bustline but it's very interesting! (And offers up some interesting design possibilities.)

  2. Lovely blouse and the print is perfect.

  3. Your pattern making skills are impeccable! I love the way it turned out, so interesting, I think I'll try this once ... thanks for the step by step.

  4. Perfect sleeve for a knit or drapey woven. I agree with Rosy about your pattern making skills.

  5. I really like this drop shoulder sleeve. Thank you.

  6. I have seen this done only in a cap sleeve, thanks for the walk through. I will definitely try this.

  7. thanks for this, i have been looking for a tutorial for doing a drop shoulder for ages and this is the only one i have found :)

  8. i forgot i commented after finding this pattern, but i just thought i would say thanks again for this patten the drop shoulder turned out grate :) i dont really have any good pictures posted on my jacket as my university is keeping it to go in a magazine being launched at graduate fashion week (although I'm just a first year student) but hears a link http://rikkicade.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/masai-jacket-ss13.html

    1. Hi Rikki, I saw your jacket on your blog a few days ago and thought it was wonderful. I had forgotten about your previous comment, so I didn't realize that I had been of any help. I am so very happy that this post helped you out. Congratulations on your success. Please send pictures when the magazine comes out. I have been quietly cheering for you. I love seeing a student do well. By the way, I love the new tattoo!!