Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Master Sewing and Design Certification/Drafting and Pockets

Whether you are sewing for yourself, or for clients, having the ability to make changes, even simple changes to a pattern is a skill that will come in quite handy.
When I initially made the Clover Pant from Colette Patterns for Sew News, I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked the pattern. The pants are a slim fit, with a side seam zipper. 
I decided that I would like to use the pattern again, but I wanted side pockets and a fly zipper. 
To do this, we will only need the front of the pant. 
Measure over from the side seam 2 1/2" at the waistline. 
At the side seam notch, fold an angled line from the notch to the mark we made at 2 1/2" from the side seam.
From the folded edge, at the waistline, measure in 3 1/2" and place a mark. 
From the side seam notch, measure down 4", and place a mark. 
Now draw in the shape of the pocket as you see below. 
When I do drafting exercises, I like to use white paper. You can purchase a roll at your local office supply store. The cost is minimal. My roll is a fairly good size roll and I paid about $5.00 for it.
Take a piece of paper and slide it under your pattern. copy off the shape of the pocket. Be sure to transfer the grainline.
Add 1/4" to the angled line of your pocket for seam allowance. I incorporated seam allowance into the measurements that I gave for the rest of the pocket. This will be the pocket facing.
Now, fold the angled edge of the side seam back and trace off the pocket once again. Be sure to transfer the grainline. This will be the pocket insert.
To cut out the pants, fold the angled line back in and pin in place. When cutting the pants, BE SURE TO REMEMBER TO ADD 1/4" SEAM ALLOWANCE  TO THE ANGLED LINE.
Cut 2 pocket facings and 2 pocket inserts.  

Now that we have the pockets drafted and cut, it's time to put them together. 
Begin by matching the pocket facing to the front pant, right sides together. Stitch along the 1/4" seam line.   
Open out the pocket facing and edge stitch along the side of the pocket facing.
As you can see below, the seam allowance should be laying towards the pocket facing. 
Fold the pocket facing back inside the pant and stitch along the edge. We have now stitched the pocket opening edge 3 times. All of the stitching will help to keep the pocket opening edge from stretching when putting your hands in the pockets.  
You can see the stitched edge a little better in the picture below. 
Now lay the pocket insert over the pocket facing and stitch the 2 together. Finish the seam however you choose.
Now we have the pocket assembled. 
Before we begin to insert the zipper, we need to baste the pocket  to the pant leg along the side seam and the waist line.   
We now have a pocket where there was never one before!!!
Adding a pocket to a pencil skirt or a pair of pants is so easy to do. This is a basic pocket, but once you've mastered a simple pocket, you can do anything.
Hope you enjoy adding to pockets to all of your pants and skirts!

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  1. This is great info . I have several skirts I want to add pockets to . Thanks for easy to follow instructions

  2. Thank you so much for this tutorial! I was literally googling this exact information yesterday and your tutorial is so much better than what I found. :)

    1. Wow, what a wonderful compliment! Thank you :)

  3. Excellent tutorial Rhonda, thank you. I have a pant block I want to move on with - yay for your pocket inspiration ;)

  4. I have often said I have a codependent relationship with pockets; I add them to virtually everything...mostly by eyeballing where I think it should go. Sometimes that doesn't work out so good....lol. Having some guidelines as to where to put those elements is so helpful!

  5. thank-you for this post! I very much enjoyed it :-)