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Sunday, January 10, 2016

Sunday Night Reflections


Earlier this week, I lost my driver's license. The realization lead to panic and then a frantic search. I looked in places where I knew it couldn't be, but maybe, just maybe it would be there. No luck. While I searched, my husband was waiting for me in the car. He had gone out, thinking that I would follow in just a few minutes. 
The more I looked, the more reality set in that the license was gone. What do I do? Should I tell my husband and risk him being upset with me, or should I just keep it to myself and do my best to find it?

My school career began in Fort Worth, Texas. The first year of school was spent learning our ABC's, learning to print, and doing simple math projects. Our second grade year was a continuation of the same, but with more advanced reading and math. Remember, this is before the age of computers! The curriculum was set up so that when we returned and began our third year, we would then learn to cursive write.
Between my second and third year of school, my family moved to Kentucky. We lived in a very rural area where coal mining was the primary source of income for most of the families. To enter the school, I had to walk across a swinging bridge that was suspended over a creek. There was a coal mine just a short distance from the school. The coal dust hung in the air as if someone was smoking and never put out their cigarette. To try and control the dust, there was a heavy layer of oil on the floors. It was like nothing I had ever seen before. 
During my first two years of school, I worked hard and did everything I could to bring home a good report card. Within moments of my first day in the new school, panic overcame me. The teacher went to the chalkboard and wrote out our assignments for the day...in cursive writing!!! I couldn't read what she wrote. I quickly learned that in their curriculum, the children had learned to cursive write at the end of their second grade year. What was I going to do? How would I ever be able to catch up? Rather than speaking up and telling the teacher that I was behind and that I needed help, I put all of the responsibility on myself, as if it was my fault. As I looked through our Spelling book, I saw that all of the letters of the alphabet were printed and next to the printed letter was the cursive form of the letter. I went home that evening and spent hours practicing, page upon page of cursive letters. By the next day, I was at least able to read what was on the board, and by the end of the week, I could write sentences and complete my homework.

When I got in the car, I took a deep breath and told my husband that I had lost my license. He replied that he wondered what was taking me so long. He didn't get angry, but began thinking of where I might possibly have lost it. Earlier in the week, I had the license in a pocket where I also had my phone. We had stopped at a restaurant for lunch. While we were there, I pulled out my phone to check my messages. I thought that maybe, just maybe the license had slipped out when I pulled out my phone. We went to the restaurant, and sure enough, they had found it on the floor and had it safely waiting for me in the cash register. I was relieved and my husband was so happy. What touched me was that through it all, he never expressed anger over the situation, he never asked why I wasn't more careful, and when it was found, he celebrated...for me.
As I thought about my husband's reaction to the situation of the lost license, the memory of having to quickly learn to cursive write came back to me. I thought it rather strange that I would remember that story in conjunction with a lost license. Then I realized the connection, I kept my mouth shut and took on the responsibility of learning to cursive write out of fear of being in trouble, it was just easier to try and find a solution on my own. 
When I came back with the license in my hand, my husband said, "I am so happy for you!" So sweet, but I was also amazed as a lost license would also affect him. Taking on the responsibility of learning to cursive write, all on my own, was quite a feat for an 8 year old. The sad part about it was that once I learned, no one knew what I had done, no congratulations, no praise. 
After all these years, I learned a little something new, especially about myself and how I have worked over my life to protect my spirit. I also learned how important it is to have someone in our lives who loves us, with whom we feel safe. To have someone in your life who wants the best for you is truly a blessing.



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Saturday, January 9, 2016

Sleeves On Saturdays/Now Easy to Find

Happy Saturday!!!
This past week, I received a message about one of my sleeve tutorials, and I was told that it was a little difficult to find. So I thought that before I start adding more to the pile of tutorials that I have done(and there is quite a pile!!), I would add a Sleeves On Saturday page to the blog. I've only begun to add the links, it's a rather large job, but within the next week or two, all of the links to all of the sleeves that I have done to date should be much easier to find. In the meantime, you can always go to my Sleeves On Saturdays Pinterest page and find them as well.
Since there are so many sleeve tutorials, I thought I would do a little recap. You'll find more on the Pinterest page, but this will help to refresh your memory...and mine :)

You'll find sleeves with draped pleats. The 2 below look similar, but they are actually not the same at all. Fun to draft and wear!
The sleeves featured below also look rather similar, but again, the drafting is different and how they fall on the body is also quite different.
Over the past few years we've done a number of gathered and shirred sleeves. The outcome can be quite interesting! 
One of my favorite tops, I called this the Haute Hippy Sleeve. It's actually a regular sleeve that was crocheted into the armhole.  
This has been my most pinned sleeve to date. It was a special request by a follower who was trying to develop the traditional Philippine sleeve. On the top right you see a lovely lady who gave the tutorial a try and made such a beautiful outfit.
We did shirred accents and made something that could be boring a lot more interesting.
We've created drapes and did a little twisting! 
We created sleeves that gave the shoulder a very square look and then took it a step farther and made it really stand out. 
Along the way, we have had a few drafting exercises. I showed you how to draft a sleeve and then create a fitted sleeve with a dart.
We've had fun with gathers. The sleeve at bottom right actually has a fake cuff. The cuff is a part of the sleeve.  
We've also created a lot of pleats. 
We used a set-in sleeve pattern and created a raglan sleeve. From there we created a barrel shaped raglan sleeve.  
This is such a pretty sleeve. I actually created it to for the post I did for the Sew News blog on drafting Peter Pan collars. Take note that the sleeve remains fitted through the top portion and then flares into the round bottom with gathers at the cuff.
Here's a full view of the blouse. If you would like to see the post on drafting Peter Pan Collars, you can find it HERE.

We've drafted sleeves that are very structured in nature. 
And finally, we've taken a traditional sleeve and given it a new twist like the Twisted Petal Sleeve below,
 and this super fun sleeve which is great on a jacket or coat, The All Points South Sleeve.
Hope you've enjoyed this look back. Like I said, there are more, I just decided to pull these out. So check out the Pinterest page. Or until I finish doing the links, you can also put Sleeves On Saturdays in the search box to the right.
Enjoy!
Rhonda 



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Friday, January 8, 2016

The Studio Kat Cosmo Bag Sew Along, The Final Post

Just wanted to let you know that the final post for the Studio Kat Cosmo Bag is up on the Sew News blog and you can find it HERE
I cannot wait to start using this bag. I really liked the first one that I made, but I absolutely love this bag! The only thing that I think I am going to add to the bag is a hard bottom. I talked about adding a hard bottom when I did the tutorial for the oversized tote bag HERE. A hard bottom will give the bag a little more structure, which I really like.
Over all, this is a great bag. I think the backpack option will make traveling through an airport so much easier. Then once I don't need the backpack option, I can easily change it back to a shoulder bag or a crossbody bag. 
By the way, I've added all the links to the sew along posts for the Cosmo Bag to the Sew News Sew Along Link Page, so if you think you would like to make the bag at a later date, you can easily refer back to the sew along posts.
Have fun making your own bag....or bags ;)
Rhonda 




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Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Taking A Chance/Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Contest

When I opened my email this morning, I found a message from Sandra Betzina. Not a personal message, but newsletter type email announcing a new contest. Have you ever thought that you might like to enter a contest? Could it possibly be a goal? Would you like to stretch your skills? In light of the post I did this morning, I thought I would share this opportunity with all of you. The contest is open to residents of the United States and Canada, and you must be at least 18 years of age to enter. 
The contest runs from January 5, 2016 through February 21, 2016, so lots of time to get your entry together. Here's your opportunity to step outside your comfort zone and take a chance. And just think, you might win!!! Someone will :) Why not make this year the year that you try?
I've included all of the information below.
Good Luck!!!
 

Because there are so many creative people using Today's Fit patterns, Power Sewing would like you to share your creativity with us. Since this season is all about warm, fun and classic coats or jackets, Power Sewing is having a contest. Make one of the 5 Today's Fit Patterns (V1478V1418V1364V1356,V1319) below and send us photos of anything you would like to enter.
The coat/jackets will be judged on (1) overall impression, (2)creativity, (3) use of fabric and detailing, (4) execution.

Lucky winner will receive the grand prize of:
  • 1 pair of Kai 9" #7230 professional scissors
  • 2 newly released Spring 2016 Vogue Patterns designed by Sandra Betzina (Today's Fit),
  • 1 Madeira Glamour Smart Box of Premium Thread
  • 1 Madeira Premium Quilting Cotton box
  • Mystery bag of sewing notions
Grand Prize Valued at $300

To Enter:
  • Email 3 photos of coat/jacket: (1) front, (2) back, (3) detail
  • Include fabric content and most challenging aspect
  • Full name, address and daytime phone number must be provided
Email entries to contest@powersewing.com with subject line: Coat/Jacket "pattern number choice" 
VOGUE PATTERNS
  
 
 

Today's Fit V1478

MISSES' COAT: Semi-fitted, lined coat (does not meet at center front) has front extending into back collar, fold-back front facing, and two-piece sleeves. A: Welt pockets. B: Pleated pockets with mock-band and purchased trim.

FABRICS: 
Coating Fabric, Two-Sided Medium-Weight Fabrics, Linen, Boiled Wool, Ethnic Wool Blankets. Contrast A: High Pile Fake Fur.

 Buy Now 

Today's Fit V1356

MISSES' DUSTER: Very loose-fitting, unlined duster has optional shoulder pads, bias, two-piece sleeves with stitched hem, turn-back cuff, side slits, bias placket and snap closing. B: upper/lower pockets. Very loose-fitting, tapered pants have elasticized waist, stitched hems and back slits. A, B, C: topstitching.
FABRICS: A,B: Linen. C: Drapey Silk, Rayons.

Buy Now

Today's Fit V1319

MISSES' COAT: Very loose-fitting, lined coat has collar, yoke and sleeves cut-in-one, bands, welt pockets, and inseam buttonholes.

FABRICS: 
Lightweight Woolens, Melton, Fleece.

Buy Now
VOGUE PATTERNS

Today's Fit V1418

MISSES' JACKET: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has raised neckline, optional shoulder pads, side panels, no side seams, side front pockets, two-piece effect sleeves with notched lower edge, and front bound buttonholes. Note: facings and pocket lining form piping effect. A: yokes and insets.

FABRICS: Lt. Wt. Wools, Linen. Contrast: Crepe de Chine, Charmeuse, Broadcloth.


Today's Fit V1364

MISSES'JACKET: Very loose-fitting, unlined jacket has front extending into collar, front tucks, optional side pockets, side back seams, sleeves with fold-back cuff, and shaped front hemline. Wrong side shows on collar and front opening. A: self fringe and puchased trim. B: back tucks and narrow hem.
FABRICS: Double Sided Fabrics, Boiled Wool, Wool Crepe, Linen.

Buy Now
Pattern Construction WebTV Lessons

Episode140_Unlined Jacket Construction V1364

Episode 163: Retro 1940's Jacket (Vogue 1418)

Jackets of the 1940's created a flattering silhouette for women of all sizes, creating a waist even if there is none. Inspired by not only this silhouette, but styling details of the period, Sandra Betzina designed Vogue 1418. View A has yoke and pocket detailing, View B has a streamlined style without the detailing, perfect to pretest the pattern for fit or for those whose time is limited. Watch for step-by-step construction with Sandra and Ron.

 Watch Now

Episode 140: Unlined Jacket Construction of Vogue 1364 (Part 1)

Every time you start a project, look closely at the pattern and identify any problem fitting areas. Watch this step-by-step class on the construction of this fabulous unlined jacket using Today's Fit pattern Vogue 1364. This pattern has a relaxed fit, so a good fit in the shoulders is very important!

Watch Now

Episode 141: Unlined Jacket Construction of Vogue 1364 (Part 2)

The continuation of Episode 140 (Part 1) the step-by-step construction of Today's Fit patternVogue 1364. Here are some tips on sleeve lining and finishing. Also how to make sure your fringe detailing the correct length.

 Watch Now

Official Rules
NO PURCHASE OR PAYMENT OF ANY KIND IS NECESSARY TO ENTER THE POWER SEWING CONTEST (THE "CONTEST.") A PURCHASE WILL NOT IMPROVE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED BY LAW.

1) ELIGIBILITY: The Contest is only open to legal residents of the 50 United States, District of Columbia and Canada who are at least 18 years old as of the date of entry. This Contest is void outside the 50 United States, the District of Columbia, and Canada where prohibited.
2) CONTEST PERIOD: The Contest begins on or about 12:00 p.m. Pacific Time ("PT") on January 5, 2016 and ends at 11:59 p.m. PT on February 21, 2016 ("Contest Period"). All entries must be received no later than 11:59 p.m. PT on February 25, 2016.
3) HOW TO ENTER & PHOTO GUIDELINES: Choose one of the three possible Vogue Patterns (Today's Fit) V1478, V1418, V1364, V1356, V1319. Make the coat/jacket of your creative choice. Entries must be 3 photos total: 1 front, 1 back, 1 detail close-up. Entries must include fabric content, pattern choice and most challenging aspect. Email the images and required sewing process information entries, along with your full name, address and daytime phone number tocontest@powersewing.com ("Submission") with subject line: Coat/Jacket "pattern number choice". Entrants may only submit one Entry. By entering this Contest, you agree to join the Power Sewing marketing database to receive emails about special promotions, exclusive offers, and updates about new materials and shows.
 
Your images may not show trademarked images and other brand logos. Further, your images must not be obscene or otherwise inappropriate, hateful, slanderous, libelous, tortious, violent, discriminatory, unlawful, offensive, harassing, and it must not violate or infringe upon another's rights (including but not limited to material that violates privacy, publicity, or intellectual property rights). All submitted images will be moderated by a Power Sewing administrator. Images that are deemed vulgar, unlawful, harmful, generally inappropriate, or in violation of the terms of these Official Rules will not be approved by the administrator and your submission will not be entered in the Contest. It is your responsibility to ensure that your submitted images do not infringe or violate the intellectual property rights or other rights of any third party or any laws. Your images must not contain brand names, copyrighted material or trademarks (other than those owned by you, Power Sewing or Vogue Patterns/The McCall Pattern Company). Submissions are limited to one (1) per entrant. The winner will be chosen by Sandra Betzina of Power Sewing. Late entries will not be accepted. Entries may not be submitted through agencies or third parties. By taking part in the Contest, each entrant (or your parent/legal guardian if you are a minor in your jurisdiction of primary residence) unconditionally agrees and accepts to be bound by these Official Rules and the decision of Power Sewing, which will be final and binding in all respects.   
 
4) WINNER SELECTION AND NOTIFICATION. One winner will be selected on or about 2/25/16 by Sandra Betzina of Power Sewing. The coat/jacket entries will be judged on (1) overall impression, (2) creativity, (3) use of fabric and detailing, (4) execution. Any potential winner will be notified by mail, email and/or telephone. If a potential winner: (i) cannot be contacted; (ii) does not respond within five (5) days from the date the Sponsor first tries to notify him/her; (iii) refuses the prize; and/or (iv) the prize or prize notification is returned as undeliverable, such potential winner forfeits all rights to win the Contest or receive the prize, and an alternate potential winner may be selected. Upon contacting a potential winner and determining that he/she has met all eligibility requirements of the Contest, such individual will be declared the "winner" of the Contest.   
 
5) PRIZE DESCRIPTION. One winner will receive 1) 1 pair of Kai #7230 9" Professional scissors 2) Both of Sandra Betzina's 2 newly released (Spring 2016) Today's Fit by Vogue Patterns, V1483 & V1494 3) 1 Madeira Glamour Smart Box of Premium Thread, 4) 1 Madeira Premium Quilting Cotton box  and 5) a mystery bag of sewing notions. The approximate total retail value of this prize is $300.
 
6) TAXES. All federal, state and/or local income and other taxes, if any, are the winner's sole responsibility.
 
7) OWNERSHIP AND LICENSE. All entry materials become the property of the Sponsor and will not be acknowledged or returned. The copyright in any Submission shall remain the property of the entrant, but entry into this Contest constitutes entrant's irrevocable and perpetual permission and consent, without further compensation, with or without attribution, to use, reproduce, print, publish, transmit, distribute, sell, perform, adapt, enhance, or display such Submission, and the entrant's name and/or likeness, for any purpose, including but not limited to editorial, advertising, trade, commercial, and publicity purposes by the Sponsor and/or others authorized by the Sponsor, in any and all media now in existence or hereinafter created, throughout the world, for the duration or the copyright in the Submission. Sponsor and/or others authorized by the Sponsor shall have the right to edit, adapt, and modify the Submission.
 
8) TERMS AND CONDITIONS: By participating, an entrant agrees to abide by the Official Rules and the decisions of Sandra Betzina and Power Sewing, which shall be final in all respects.
 
9) SPONSOR: Power Sewing, 5 Upper Terrace., San Francisco, CA 94117.
 
10) WHO WON? For the name of the winner, please email contest@powersewing.com, Subject: Winter 2016 Coat/Jacket Inspiration Contest.



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A Few Words On Wednesday


Don't let your fears get in the way of your dreams.
Don't let your fears get in the way of what God dreams for you.
                                                                                                                     Chuck Swindoll

I just recently began reading a very interesting book entitled, "Wishcraft, How To Get What You Really Want," by Barbara Sher. She begins by talking about the fact that as small children we all knew what we wanted and and we had no inhibitions about going after what we wanted. We dreamed and believed for a time that we could be and do just about anything. But within a few years, around the time we start school, it all begins to change. She gives this very interesting comparison of humans and plants to show us how our environment plays such a huge role in where we find ourselves as adults. 

"If a seed is given good soil and plenty of water and sun, it doesn't have to try to unfold. It doesn't need self-confidence or self discipline or perseverance. It just unfolds. As a matter of fact, it can't help unfolding.
If a seed has to grow with a rock on top of it, or in deep shade, or without enough water, it won't unfold into a healthy full-sized plant. It will try...hard...because the drive to become what you are meant to be is incredibly powerful. But at best, it will become a sort of ghost of what it could be: pale, undersized, drooping. 
In the age of ecology, we ourselves are the only creatures we would ever expect to flourish in an environment that does not give us what we need! We wouldn't order a spider to spin an exquisite web in empty space, or a seed to sprout on a bare desk top. And yet that is what we tend to demand of ourselves." 

The book is not about making excuses for what we have not obtained in our lives, or placing blame on our parents, but rather a road map to get you back to truly knowing what you want for your life, re-discovering your dreams, and your true destiny. 
In the second chapter, she asks the reader 7 questions. The answers are a simple yes or no. For me, every answer was no. She then asks you to think about how your life would look had the answers all been yes. It can be a rather painful look back. 
I went to sleep last night thinking about what I had read, and when I awoke this morning, I had a very different perspective. We have all had trauma, disappointment and tragedy in our lives. It's all a part of what makes us who we are today. But think about a plant that is finally given the nourishment and care that it needs, it will grow strong and become the plant that it was always destined to be. I think the same can be said for us. The good news is that we can give ourselves the nourishment we need.  
The book that lead me to "Wishcraft," was "Write It Down, Make It Happen," by Henriette Anne Klauser. In her book, she talks about the power of writing down our dreams, and writing in detail what the realization of the dream could mean in our lives. I just recently finished the book and I highly recommend it.
If you decide to read the books, just remember, it's not about just dreaming or wishing. While dreaming and wishing or a starting point, it takes work to make your dreams a reality. When I read "Write It Down, Make It Happen," I wrote out my dream list and I review it everyday just as suggested. Some of my dreams are huge, and I'm sure that if I were to share them, some would wonder how I could ever hope to accomplish them. I'm happy to say that I have already been able to strike one off the list. It wasn't huge, but it is something I've wanted to do for a long time, and the feeling of striking something off the list was really empowering. What has been interesting, the more I review the list, the more I am realizing that they can all come to pass.  
As this new year begins.....
Dream  
It's not too late :)

Below is a podcast from Micheal Hyatt that I have found to be 
especially motivating. I hope you enjoy it too.



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Monday, January 4, 2016

Monday Morning Inspiration/Working With Fur, 3 Tips to Get You Started

Good Morning All and Happy first Monday of 2016!
When I was in fashion school, I had the wonderful opportunity to study with a very gifted fur designer. We took old resale shop furs and turned them into works of art. I loved every minute of the process. After I was out of school, the designer passed along my portfolio to a fur manufacturer who loved my work. They did everything they could to recruit me, and as much as I wanted to work for them, the commute would have been killer and I just couldn't see myself sitting in traffic for over 3 hours a day. So I passed up the opportunity. 
I still enjoy working with fur, and I still visit resale shops and hunt for old furs that can be salvaged into something beautiful. I never buy new fur, but I do buy faux fur.  
Over the weekend, Shams of Communing With Fabric and I had a nice little conversation about sewing with fur/faux fur. Whether working with faux fur, or the real thing, the process is the same.
Here are  few pointers;
1. Never cut fur with scissors. Use a razor blade. You want to cut the skin or fabric, but not the hair. 
2. Fur should not have a seam allowance. Once you have done a fitting and are sure that the fit of the garment is good, cut the seam allowance off of the pattern. Lay the pattern out on the back side of the fur and trace off the pattern. Then cut it out with a razor blade.
3. To sew the fur together, if using the real thing, you will need to sew the fur together by hand. If using a faux fur, use a zigzag stitch. The fabric should be laid together with right sides together and the fur pushed away from the seam edge while you stitch. The zigzag stitch should be just along the edge of the fabric. If you feel that you need to secure the fur, you can use paper clips. But with faux fur, as long as the pile is not too thick, you can use pins. 
Of course, there's a lot more to putting a garment together, but the 3 steps I've listed above will give you a good starting point. 

Shams sent me a link to the video below. Beautifully done. In the video you will see a rather strange sewing machine. It's one that is specifically for sewing fur. Notice that there are no seam allowances and that the fur is being cut with a razor blade, NO SCISSORS!!!!!   

Now it wouldn't be Monday without a little inspiration. I know that many have issues with real fur, but thanks to modern technology, we can all enjoy a luxurious pile and spare the animals. Faux furs can be a lot more fun than the real thing too!
Love this little faux fur top.
Leather, fabric or ribbon can be used to give the bubble look of real fur. Notice the hem. Here it was turned up, but also take note that the hem of the lining is hanging free. There are a number of ways to hem a fur, but if you turn up a hem, do not attach the lining to the fur like you would with a woven fabric. 
Like I said, the fake stuff can be so much fun!!!


A simple neck warmer is a nice way to add a little fur to your wardrobe. Love the bow tie on this one.
If you think you might like to take a stab at sewing a little faux fur, a great place to start is with a simple garment like this stole from Vera Venus. You can find the pattern HERE.
Another simple pattern is this collar from Haberman's Fabrics in Michigan. We did this piece for Thrifty Thursday a while back. Easy to make and very versatile. Works over a coat or jacket, and can be worn as an accessory over a top. You can find the free pattern HERE
Start the new year off with a little fur, and while you're at it, you might want to show off your piece over at Pretty Grievances and her beyond fun Jungle January challenge.  
Go a little wild in 2016!!!
Rhonda



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Sunday, January 3, 2016

Sunday Night Reflections


May light always surround you;
Hope kindle and rebound you.
May your hurts turn to healing;
Your heart embrace feeling.
May wounds become wisdom;
Every kindness a prism.
May laughter infect you;
Your passion resurrect you.
May goodness inspire your deepest desires.
Through all that you reach for,
May your arms never tire.
                                                                                                  D. Simone



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