Sleeves On Saturdays

Drafting a Set-In Sleeve

Many of you have asked for instructions on drafting a set-in sleeve. The sleeve is drafted using measurements from the armhole of your garment.
It is best to draft the sleeve using a piece of folded paper. We will draft the entire sleeve at the same time and then unfold the paper. Use the folded edge of the paper as the center grainline of the sleeve.
A to B is the measurement from the top of the arm to the wrist.

To determine A to C, measure the armhole of your garment pattern. Be sure to curve the tape measure as you go around the top of the sleeve. A to C is 1/4 of total armhole measurement.

 Square a line out from C.

 C to D is 1/2 of total armhole measurement.

 Connect A to D to form a guideline.

To determine B to E measurement, make a fist and measure around the fist. This measurement will allow the hand to easily fit through the opening of the sleeve. B to E is 1/2 of fist measurement.

 Connect D to E with a straight line.

Divide the C to D line into 3 equal sections. Mark as F and G.

Square a line up from F and G to the A-D quideline. Mark as I and H.

Measure out from I 3/8" and mark as J.

Divide the area between H and I in half and mark. On the H-G line, measure in 1/4" and place a mark.

Connect A to D with a curved line going through J and the mark between H and G. This will be the curve for the back sleeve.

Between J and I, divide the area in half and mark.

Draw a second curved line, intersecting the area between I and J. This will be the front curve of the sleeve.

Cut the sleeve out using the line for the back curve of the cap.

Using a tracing wheel, transfer the front curve to the front of the sleeve. Cut the front sleeve curve on this line.

 The final sleeve pattern.

Next week we will discuss the notch placement and finding the center of the sleeve. If by chance you have a little time to draft out the sleeve and you would like to give it a try, be sure to add 1" seam allowances. This will give you ample room to make adjustments on the cap of the sleeve.