Sunday, June 30, 2013

Sleeves On Saturdays

Last week I posted the instructions on how to turn Butterick 5678 into a double-breasted jacket. You may have noticed that I left out the sleeve.
The sleeve is very basic, just a straight sleeve right off of the pattern, but with one difference, the cuff. This is actually a fold up cuff. The trim is just on the edge of the seam.
In the picture below I have unfolded the cuff. If you look at the picture above, the cuff sits smoothly against the sleeve. Have you ever hemmed up a skirt, a pair of pants, or a sleeve and the hem does not fit smoothly against the garment? What I would like to show you is how to make the fold up cuff and also how to never a problem with the hem being too tight against the garment.
 I am showing you the sleeve with a cuff, but this translates to a tapered skirt or a tapered pant leg.
 Begin with the tapered sleeve.
 Add the amount that you would like for the cuff.
 Extend the sleeve.
 Fold up the cuff.
 The extended cuff is folded against the sleeve.
The picture below is the back of the sleeve pattern. There is a little extension and that is for the hem. The hem is folded up against the sleeve.
With everything folded, cut on the seam lines of the sleeve.
Unfold and you will see a zigzag pattern to the cuff and hem area. If you take notice of the extended lines that I drew in, the difference is very obvious.
Now the cuff will fit smoothly around the sleeve and the hem will not pucker on the inside of the sleeve.
Hope this helps with future projects.

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  1. What a clever trick! I love it!

  2. Neat! Similar to how I do my sleeve and skirt hem allowances.

  3. Can you tell me how much you added for this particular cuff? Thanks so much for this, it is really helpful.

    1. For the cuff I added a total of 4" and them another 1 1/2" for the hem. If you still have a question, message me again.

    2. Thank you! I had guesstimated and the only difference was my hem which was only 3/4". I will redraw it and try again as practice makes the process sink in!

    3. So happy I could help. Let me know if you have any other questions.