Thursday, June 27, 2013

Butterick 5678 Made Into a Jacket with a Sailor Collar

At this point you may think I've done just about all I can do with Butterick 5678. If you are new to the blog or would just like to refresh your memory, you can see all the collars and garments that I have done using just this pattern and a little bit of drafting here, http://www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-many-faces-of-butterick-5678.html .
This week I decided to do the shirt as a jacket. If you look closely, you can see that there is a little shape on the side seams, but over all the jacket is rather boxy. I also added pockets. As for the collar, that post should be up on the Sew News blog soon. We've had a few technical problems this week so it's a little late. As soon as the post is up though, I will let you know.
 There is a princess line seam on the front of the jacket, but the back has no seams.
To create the boxy back, the process is quite simple. In the picture below you can see where I overlapped the seam allowances and this created the new back pattern piece. In order for the jacket to have a little shape, I left the curve on the side seam.
 To create the front, once again, overlap the seam allowances. Rather than overlapping them at the shoulder and the hem as we did for the back, the seam allowances are overlapped at the bust point and the hem. This will leave a dart at the shoulder.
I wanted to have side panel pockets so I needed to split my pattern. Look at the picture below and you will see my ruler sitting on what would have been the seam line. Because I wanted a boxy fit to the jacket, I eliminated the shaping that the waist dart would have given.
The pattern pieces once they have been split apart. You can see that the shoulder dart is still in the pattern, but there is no shaping at the waist. I also decided to make my jacket double breasted. In the picture below you can see that my grainline is at center front. The extension for the double breast will measure the same amount as from center front to the seam line. The center front pattern piece will also be the facing so you will cut 4, 2 fronts and 2 facings.
Now, to create the pocket. Look closely at the picture below and you will see that the pocket bows out a bit from the garment. This makes it easy to put your hand in the pocket without pulling on the main body of the garment.
To develop the pocket pattern, measure down approximately 2 1/2" from the waistline on the side seam and place a mark. The pocket can be any shape you wish, I just chose to have a curve to my pocket, so if this is what you would like, simply curve the line up to the princess line seam.
 Now, measure out 1/2" on the side seam,
 and blend this line back down to where the pocket will end. In this case the bottom of the pattern.
Remove the pocket pattern from the drafting. You can see that the pocket matches the side front panel everywhere expect for the side seam.
 When the pocket is sewn to the garment it will bow out at the opening.
The final patterns. You will need to add the hem allowance to the pocket, but do not add the hem allowance to the side front panel. This will cut down on bulk at the hem. You will need to cut 4 pockets, 2 for each side. Remember that the pocket needs to have a backing. I also placed notches on the side front pattern piece so that I would know where to match my pocket.
In my quest to use what I have, I went through all of my buttons and believe me that is a lot! I had nothing that was just the right button until I had the idea to layer my buttons. If you look closely you'll see that there is a large black button. On top of that button is a red button and then finally, the small white button that fit perfectly into the well of the red button. I was so happy!
I did line my jacket. There's nothing better than an unexpected lining!! 
One pattern can go a long way in creating an entire wardrobe. 
Hope you'll give it a try!

Share this PostPin ThisShare on TumblrShare on Google PlusEmail This


  1. This is so ingeneous. I would never have thought to use a blouse pattern for a jacket! Love it!

  2. Wow, what a fabulous jacket! I love the unexpected surprises - like the buttons and lining. Great attention to detail!

  3. Brilliant! You are one smart 'out-of-the-box' creator when it comes to sewing...

  4. This is some seriously creative work and the jacket is so lovely.
    Every detail is so well thought out. Amazing.

  5. This is very clever. At the end of the day we all probably need only 5 or 6 base patterns and a good deal of creativity and drafting skills.

  6. A lovely smart jacket - sort of a sailor suit jacket. It's fun manipulating patterns.

  7. That is truly surprising! You totally streamlined the pattern and your details really make the jacket work. What a great way to use buttons that really match the trim.

  8. So, so CREATIVE. I'm always amazed at what you design!

  9. Oh my, you would never guess that was the same pattern - lovely