A New Spring Jacket/Style Arc Grace Trans-Seasonal Coat

Have you ever made something and loved it so much that you are apprehensive about using it? Well, that's how I feel about the Poppins Bag that I made back in January. But, I am determined to sweeten the pot enough that I will use it, and that's why I decided to make the Style Arc Grace Trans-Seasonal periwinkle jacket :)

The pattern is a bit deceiving. From the drawing, it looks as though the collar will hit just below the chin. In reality, the collar actually hits above the chin, and just below the mouth. I do not have a short neck, so something to keep in mind if you do make the jacket.

The fabric that I used for the jacket is a wool gabardine that I have had for quite some time. It was actually a remnant that I purchased from Vogue Fabrics here in Chicago(actually, Evanston, IL) I only had 1 7/8 of a yard. The pattern calls for 3 yards :/, but I was determined. No matter what I did, I could not get the facing, or the pockets out of my fabric. What to do??? I had the raw silk, and as I was going through my "collection," I thought, "well, maybe." 

In the end,the jacket would have been too light had I not lined it. So rather than just using the silk as the facing, I used it to line the entire jacket. I love how well it worked out!

The instructions that come with the jacket are a bit sketchy, so I would not recommend this pattern to someone who is fairly new to sewing. The instructions for the pockets are not included in the pattern, you must go to the website to find the tutorial. 

The pocket is a welt pocket with a flap. Pretty when finished, but can be a bit tricky. I used a lining fabric for my pockets. 

As I mentioned, the collar is quite high. Rather than take it out and cut it down, I played around with it a bit and decided that I rather like the asymmetrical look if I wish to use the top button.   

Rather than top-stitch the jacket in a matching thread, I used 2 thread colors. Using the 2 colors together gave interest and an extra pop that using a matching thread would not have done.

Buttons!!! Buttons can be such a challenge. I am so very fortunate to live so close to Soutache. Such a lovely shop, like a trip to Paris without the jetlag, and she has the most amazing collection of buttons. I thought that this set of vintage buttons worked perfectly :)

I have enough of the raw silk to make either a skirt or a pair of pants. Not sure which I'll choose. If I go with the skirt, I'll also have enough for the cute Susan Khalje Boat Neck Top. If I do the latter, I will have the beginnings of a wonderful travel ensemble.

Once I get the buttonholes done, and sew on the buttons, I think I am going to really enjoy this new jacket. It also looks great with jeans, so very versatile. 
Happy Sewing!

Rhonda

Let's Celebrate With A Giveaway!!!

Here in the United States, it's the 4th of July, a day for celebrating. So it's all the more fitting, that I have something wonderful to share and celebrate. Janet Pray of Islander Patterns is just about to launch a brand new pattern, the Fast and Fabulous Jacket. And even better, she has given me the opportunity to give away 3 patterns!!! That's right 3 patterns!

This is a great jacket for pulling a look together. Great for airplane rides that can be a little chilly, and wonderful to pull on over a simple pair of black pants and create an entirely new look, so the perfect addition to a travel wardrobe.

The jacket features raglan sleeves, a u-shaped neckline, and welt pockets. The u-shaped neckline is perfect for pairing with scarves and even a statement piece of jewelry.   

The jacket is made even more flattering with the extended back length. View B features a split tail that would be fun to accent with eyelets and lacing.

The jacket is unlined, so perfect for spring, summer and fall. The design lends itself to everything from fun home dec fabrics, to denim, and even leather. 

So if you would like an opportunity to win 1 of the 3 patterns that I have to give away, just leave a message on this post. Simple!!!

You'll have until midnight CST Sunday June 9, 2017 to enter your name. Names will be drawn and winners announced on Monday, June 10, 2017.

Good Luck!!!

Rhonda

Master Sewing and Design Certification/Piped Pockets

If by chance you are thinking about taking the plunge and working toward Master Sewing And Design Certification, I wanted to let you know that most of the techniques that I'm sharing with you at this point are not a part of the requirements. For instance, you will need to demonstrate a welt pocket, but it does not need to be a piped welt pocket. I think that the tutorials offer great information, and hopefully help you in projects that you take on. Something that you might want to think about doing is getting a notebook, doing the samples for yourself and building your own sample notebook. A notebook like this can be a wonderful resource. I made one when I was in school...lots of years ago :)...and I loved my notebook. Sadly, we had a flood and I lost the book, but I am now building a new one. For those of you who teach, this is a great resource to have and to share.  

Today I wanted to do a welt pocket with purchased piping. This is a fun technique to have in your sewing arsenal as you can customize your garments with a purchased piece of piping, or even create your own. Since the piping that I'm using is quite small, it could also be used to make bound buttonholes, and the process would be basically the same. 

Piped Welt Pockets

The fabric that I'm using is a piece of raw silk.  

Depending upon where you want to place your pocket, and the type of fabric that you are using, you may want to back the pocket opening with a piece of interfacing. I used a piece of cotton fusible interfacing. Just be sure that the interfacing corresponds to the fabric.

As we did with the triangle buttonhole, marking is very important. Notice here that I have marked the center of my pocket and the ends. Hand basting is best for this step.  

The size of the piping may not be as wide as the tape that is holding the piping, so be sure to measure the width of the piping before you begin. My piping is approximately 1/8" wide. 

Once I determine the width of my piping, I then marked the outside edge of the pocket. 

Align the piping with the basted edge of the pocket.

Stitch down the piping, starting and stopping at the marked ends of the pocket. I stitched the piping to the fabric on the right side, but it's easier to see the stitching from the back side.

Once the piping has been stitched to the garment, clip the pocket open, using the center basted line as a guideline.  

Stop clipping about a half inch away from the ends, and clip a small v shape as you see below.

Turn the edges of the piping to the inside of the pocket opening and press.

Now that the piping is in place, we will add the pocket bag to the inside. Begin by stitching the pocket facing to the lower piped edge. Once the pocket facing has been stitched to the lower edge of the piping, simply fold it down and press.

Now stitch the top pocket to the top edge of the piping.

Once the top pocket and the pocket facing have been stitched in place, it's time to sew the pocket together.

Turn the pocket over and make sure that the piping is aligned and you are happy with how it all looks. Maybe give it a little light steam, depending upon your fabric. 

Fold back the sides and reveal the small triangle that was cut at the ends of the pocket.  

Beginning on one side, stitch across the triangle, right at the edge of the pocket and continue stitching around the pocket to the other side and stitch across the opposite triangle.  

All I need to do now is take the basting stitches out of my fabric and my pocket is complete. 

If by chance you are using a piece of piping that is encased in fabric, you will probably want to pull a little of the piping out from the edge so that you don't have to sew over the piping. A larger piece of piping could also leave a bump on the right side of the garment which you would not want. The piping that I used is quite small and basically pressed flat, so it is not an issue. 

The Pattern Review Weekend will be May 13th and 14th, here in Chicago. If by chance you are coming, be sure to check out Chicago Fabric Yarn and Button located at 208 South Wabash. The shop is not a large shop, but if you don't mind digging, you can find some wonderful treasures. The piping that I used for this demonstration was purchased there. This is our only downtown fabric store. All the other stores are either in the suburbs, or will require a ride on the elevated train. 

I hope this tutorial will inspire you to be creative with your pockets and buttonholes. Think about building a sample notebook. I have lots of tutorials coming up and I think you will enjoy having the notebook as a reference.

Happy Sewing,

Rhonda

Monday Morning Inspiration/Great Ideas

To start off the new week, I thought I would share a few pieces that I've found which I think are quite inspirational. Of course, I dream of doing them all, but even if I just adopt one into a garment, then that's a good thing too :)

I absolutely adore this skirt and how easy it would be to do. The skirt is just an a-line skirt with an added pleat, and of course a zipper. 

The pleated detail on this skirt is so pretty.

I tried to find the website that this jacket came from, but no luck. This is just amazing!

 Here's another raglan sleeve with great seam details. 

                        

The next time I make a raglan sleeved garment, I want to give this a try. What a fun peek-a-boo treatment.

The neckline on this jacket is wonderful. Look closely, the princess line develops into a notched collar.

Now for a little draping inspiration.

Love how the drape folds into a pleat.

From Haider Ackermann.

Such a pretty back.

Another interesting piece from Haider Ackermann.

A subtle, but incredible pocket detail. Would be great color blocked.

Another amazing pocket detail. I think I have to figure this one out!

And finally, just because it is just-so-pretty.

 Isn't this the most incredible jacket?!!!

I hope this has made for an awe inspiring start to the week!
Happy Monday :)
Rhonda

Monday Morning Inspiration

Good Morning Everyone!! I hope your new week is off to a great start. 

So many of you enjoyed last week's post on cartridge pleats, so I thought I would showcase another technique, the welt pocket. A beautifully executed welt pocket can give a garment a touch of tailored class like no other technique. I have a feeling though that many of you have already started to cringe at just the thought of putting in a welt pocket, but be sure to scroll to the end as I have added some tools that will help you master welt pockets.

The skirt below is a wonderful example of how a simple, but beautiful welt pocket can be a perfect detail.

Check out this pocket. Vintage garments always have such lovely accents.

For the person who likes a challenge and some extra work.

I love this jacket!!! The lining, piping and then the pockets make for the perfect accents.

Here's another beauty accented with a bow.

The curved welt pocket.

Accented with stitching and a leather arrow.

Incorporated into a seam. If you don't look closely, you could miss the pocket.

A zippered welt.

Beautifully executed bias stripes.

Accented with pick stitching.

A crescent shaped lip.

A shaped pocket. The rivets are a nice touch with the denim.

A little origami.

An interior pocket with a small flap and a button loop closure.

Given a bow feel.

For those who really want a challenge.....

and then a challenge on steroids!!!!! Take note that this is a double pocket. Amazing!

Welt pockets can be added just as a design detail with no functionality.

Here's a video from Peggy Sagers on making a simple welt pocket.

Some years ago I purchased this tool for making welt pockets. It's a very useful tool.

You can find it HERE.
The trick to making great welt pockets is just to practice....like just about any other technique. The video and the tool won't render the special pockets like I've shown above, but once you've mastered the basic pocket, you'll be ready to take on something a little more challenging.
Wishing you a lovely week!
Rhonda