Wednesday, November 2, 2016

Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans Sew Along

For some reason, this week's Ginger Jean sew along post has not made it up on the Sew News blog. So, I thought that rather than make you wait, I would go ahead and share the post here. In this week's post, we make flat-felled seams, my favorite! We also attach the back pockets and sew up the jeans. Once the post is upon the Sew News blog, the link will be added to my Sew News Sew Along Links page which you can find HERE. By the way, I added links to all of the sew alongs I've done for Sew News, so if you would ever like to refer back to a post, it's now super easy to do :)     

The Sew News 
Ginger Jeans Sew Along 
Week 3

Blue jeans began as the quintessentially American garment. They were originally designed by Levi Strauss to meet the needs of a rugged garment for miners and cowboys. In the 1950's, blue jeans were embraced by teenagers and a movement began. Quite simply, people across the world love their jeans.

It was those humble beginnings that gave us the sturdy seams that we love and today, look upon as being decorative. A flat-felled seam is a must in a great pair of jeans. If you've never stitched one, you are in for a treat! 

The first flat-felled seam that you will make on the Ginger Jeans is the back hip yoke. 

Begin by stitching the yoke to the back pant, wrong sides together. Note that the heavy decorative thread is on the yoke side. 

Trim only the lower seam allowance in half. Be careful not to cut through the top seam allowance. Trust me, it can happen, I've done it!!!

Now press the seam down toward the bottom of the pant leg.

Fold up the bottom edge of the seam allowance.

And stitch down.

The result is a beautifully finished seam.

On the inside of the garment, the seam finish is smooth and the seam allowance can no longer rub against the body. One of the reasons that we find jeans so very comfortable to wear.  

The next step will be to attach the back pockets.
Dots have been provided for placement. Be sure to transfer the dots to the pant leg.

A pattern has been provided for the interfacing needed for the top edge of the back pockets. Please do not skip this step. 

Once the pockets have been interfaced, mark a line 3/4" down from the top edge. This will be the fold line. Fold down and press.

Fold the bottom edge of the seam under and press.

Edge stitch across the top and then stitch again as you see below. Press under the side and bottom edge of the pocket, 1/2". Be careful to not press out the curve on the one side.

If you would like to add a decorative design to the pocket, now is the time to do so.

Pin the pocket to the back pant leg, matching it to the dots provided. If you would like, you can baste the pocket to the pant leg, but the pins really should hold it in place.

Stitch around the edge of the pocket and then again as you see below. Angling the second stitching line at the top edge of the pocket will ensure that the seam is hidden inside the stitching.

At this point, baste the back seam allowance and the legs seams together. Try them on for fit. You can easily make adjustments to the crotch and back seam at this point.

Once any adjustments have been made, take out the basting stitches and sew up the center back seam with a flat-felled seam.

Sew the inner leg together with a flat-felled seam.

The inner leg will be nice and smooth on the inside.

The side seam of the jeans cannot be sewn as a flat-felled seam. Simply sew the side seam together with right sides facing. If you do not have a serger to finish the seam, a zigzag seam finish will work quite well. Once the seam has been zigzagged, trim down the seam allowance.

On the outer side of the jeans, edge stitch the side seam seam allowance from the waist to the end of the pocket. If you would like, you can do a bar tack at the end of the stitching. I did not, I just backstitched at the end of the seam.

At this point, our jeans are together! The front looks great,

And so does the back!

Our final steps will be to make the belt loops, attach the waistband, make the buttonhole, attach the jean button, and hem the legs. Just a few more steps and it's slip on time!!!

I don't know about you, but I am now addicted to this pattern. I've purchased fabric for 3 more pair! 

Good luck with your flat-felled seams.

Until next time...
Sew On!

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  1. Excellent tutorial. I just finished making my first pair of jeans...they look great.
    I wanted to ask you if you still have the instructions for your oh so cute owl pin cushions from Dec 2014? The link on the post for instructions no longer exists. Thank you

    1. Hi Anne, I went to the link that I had originally posted for the pattern and found that the site was infected with a virus. So all of my links to the pattern have now been deleted. I am going to put up a new pattern soon, so stay tuned :)

  2. Hi Rhonda-I'm preparing to make my own Ginger Jeans, view B, but I'm a bit overwhelmed at the "fitting of the crotch" and other fitting steps. Some have said that there is no need to make a muslin, while others have said that its ideal. My question to you is, which fitting method did you use when choosing your size and achieving the desire fit?

    1. Hi Tonya. I am one of those who did not make a muslin and had a wonderful experience with the fit. The only alteration I had to make was to take in the waistline, which I usually have to do. One thing to be very sure of is that there is at least 2% Lycra stretch to your denim. As for a muslin, I would purchase an inexpensive piece of stretch denim for the first go round. Here's a link that I found from the Closet Case blog on fitting the jeans that I hope willl help you, https://closetcasepatterns.com/ginger-sewalong-pt-5-fitting/