Once You Obtain Tailoring Skills, It's Hard to Let Them Go!

Good Morning from the iceberg we are calling Chicago!!! Wow, is it ever cold!!! At least the sun is shining, so hopefully some of the iced over sidewalks won't be as treacherous as they are at the moment. 

I just have to brag a bit...Mr. Berkley graduated from level 3 to level 4 in his training. I am so very proud of him. Level 4 will be a little difficult as in this level he will have to demonstrate the ability to just walk past another dog without paying attention to them. Berkley is such a friendly guy, and always wants to say hello to other dogs. So, we have our work cut out for us. My goal was to have him complete level 3 by Thanksgiving. My next goal is to have him complete level 4 by Christmas. The challenge is on!!! :)

I apologize for being so delinquent from the blog. Just a lot on my plate. But, I am happy to say that my husband has healed from his broken leg, and is back to his normal activities. I've also been doing quite a bit of flying. I needed to do some currency work, so that has taken a good bit of my time. On my last flight, as I came in to land, even if I say so myself, it was a beautiful landing, a true greaser. The flight instructor said, "Do you do that just to impress me? Believe me, I'm already impressed!" Made my day :) 

Now, back to a little tailoring.
What I have learned about advancing your skills as a sewist, once you learn how, it's difficult to go back. 

I am putting together the Box Blazer pattern from Pattern Union. It's an unstructured, unlined jacket, but with tailored details.    

Here's the lovely Sarah in her creation.



The jacket was designed to be quick and easy to make, but...

As you can see, I have underlined the pieces with cotton batiste. I love cotton batiste for underlining wool. If you decide to use cotton batiste, be sure it is cotton batiste and not quilting cotton. Cotton batiste is a very fine fabric that works beautifully as an underlining.

Here's my jacket in the early stag of construction. I will be using horsehair interfacing for the collar and lapels, and I will also use the horsehair interfacing in the hem of the jacket and the hem of the sleeves. Using horsehair in the hems makes all the difference in the world as it makes the hems hang so beautifully. I wanted you to see the jacket at his stage as once the horsehair interfacing goes in, you'll really see the difference. 

The jacket was designed to be unlined, but...I need a lining :) I found this beautiful piece of silk charmeuse. How pretty will this be?!!   

The next step will be to do the bound buttonholes, and then the collar and facing will go in. Can't wait to get it finished!

Lots more tailoring will be following!

Have a wonderful day!

Rhonda

Tailoring: The Professional Way

It's snowing!!! 

Yep, I love the snow, but I feel a little haunted today. Twenty-five years ago, on Halloween, we had a terrible, snowy night. When it snows this early in the season, the snow is wet and sticky, so on airplanes, it immediately turns to ice. Ice can bring an airplane down in a heartbeat. A passenger plane was flying from Indianapolis to Chicago when it encountered severe icing conditions and crashed in Rensselaer, IN, killing all 68 of those on board. I think about that crash every year on Halloween. 

Well, that story really beings the day on a somber note! 

Actually, I have something wonderful to share with you, but I have to apologize as it's an out of print book, Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. I am helping a friend of mine tailor a jacket. She is so very excited. I am as well. The jacket is lovely and she is doing a great job. She came last week for a progress check, and instruction on where to go next. When she began to pull her things out of her bag, she said, " I have a gift for you," and handed me the book you see below.

The book was written in the early 1950s by a master tailor. Master tailors are becoming few and far between these days. As I thumbed through the book, I was amazed by the detail. I have other books on tailoring, but none are like this book.

The book begins with explaining what good tailoring really is. 

The book walks the reader through the entire process of creating a well tailored garment, beginning with pattern drafting, to the fitting and finishing of both men's and women's suits.

This is an old book, so no flashy color photos like we see in more modern books.

Every detail of the tailoring process is covered.

The chapter on pants has me mesmerized!

I also love the chapter on making a well tailored skirt.

If you would like to take a peek, I did a short video review of the book.



As I said, the book is sadly out of print. I found THESE buying options on Amazon. They are all quite expensive. And, I found THESE options at Abe's Books. These too are quite expensive. But, you may know of other online book sellers who just might have a reasonably priced copy. If you think you would enjoy tailoring, this is a fabulous book. I feel so very fortunate to have received it as a gift!

Happy Sewing!

Rhonda

Bring Back the Art of Tailoring

A year ago, while I was still president of the Haute Couture Club of Chicago, the board met for our summer planning meeting. For a number of years, the club had been giving scholarships to aspiring designers who were graduating from design school. Sadly, the school that we had partnered with, closed, so we needed a new strategy. Three of our board members had been mentoring 3 high school students who were interested in pursuing a career in fashion. So, rather than try and find another school to partner with, we decided to promote these young ladies. As it turned out, we loved it, and the audience loved it too. 

The young woman (Pearl) who won our top award was also awarded a scholarship to study at the Art Institute's school of fashion design. Such a wonderful opportunity for her. Although, she was lamenting that the sewing aspect of the program was lacking. So, I decided to help her out. Over the upcoming school year, I will be working with her to create a stitch and technique notebook as well as construct a true tailored jacket. I was so fortunate with the school that I attended as there was a very heavy focus on fine sewing skills. While in school, I built an incredible stitch and technique portfolio. Sadly, our basement flooded, and I lost my book. Needless to say, I was devastated. 

Back in June of this year, I taught a class on seam finishes and fabric stabilizing at the Michigan League of Handweavers conference. That gave me the incentive to begin building a new stitch and technique notebook. So, work has begun on mine, and as Pearl and I work together, my notebook will once again come to life :)

As it turned out, the board member who had been mentoring Pearl also wanted to participate in building a stitch/technique book, and make a true tailored jacket. At this point, I have gotten the 2 of them started. Their muslins have been fitted, and we are beginning the work of tailoring. I too will be putting together a tailored jacket so that they can follow along. So...in essence, if you would like, you can virtually be a part of the class as I will be posting each of the steps of my jacket here on the blog.

I have decided to use the vintage Vogue pattern that you see below. I have been wanting to make the jacket for years! A fellow Haute Couture member gave me the pattern as she felt that "it looked like" me :)

I'll be using this fabulous piece of wool. The contrasting collar will be in a solid navy blue wool or velvet. I'll decide that once I get a little closer to adding the collar. 

I just love the instructions. Not something you see in many patterns today. While looking at the pattern, I told Pearl that this was a time when we used the term, investment clothing. 

On the label of the pattern it says;

Straight from Paris to you - the fashion in this envelope. Your Paris Original was selected by Vogue at the dramatic opening of the designer's collection, then flown to America where a line-for-line translation was put into pattern form. 

Each piece that is included in the pattern is quite lovely. 

I am especially excited about this new project. Anytime I get something lovely out of the deal, I'm happy!!! I'm excited also about being able to pass along a little of my knowledge, and hopefully help a new generation who has not had the opportunities that I had (home ec in high school) to advance her skills. And too, I hope that there will be a little something to glean for all of you who stop by the blog :)

Happy Sewing!

Rhonda          

Men Of The Cloth/Tailoring Inspiration

Whether it's on a man or a woman, I LOVE a well tailored suit. 

Just a few days ago, I came across this fascinating website, Tailor Made London.  The company was born out of a desire to bring elite tailoring to a mass market. Their secret is 3D body scanning. In just 10 seconds, the laser body scanner takes 1000s of precise measurements which allows them to then create a garment that fits perfectly. Wow, what a dream! 

On their site, they have the most inspirational tailoring pictures. Take a look.

D-shaped Bar tacks.

The lovely stitching on a Dupont Pocket.

Hand stitched detail on the facings.

Side adjusters on a pair of slacks.

A tacked buttonhole.

The precisely hand stitched sleeve lining.

You can check out more of these beautifully detailed pictures HERE.
The company does have a blog. THIS is a very interesting article on jacket construction.  

Hope you've enjoyed this little bit of tailoring inspiration. I'm ready to pack up, move to London and work for this company! They probably wouldn't have me, but that's okay, one can dream :)

Men Of The Cloth

Last night, I had the most wonderful opportunity to experience one of the best documentaries that I have ever seen. Part documentary, part movie and part love story, it was in short, a very moving experience.

"MEN OF THE CLOTH shows how the values embodied by these master tailors -– pride, authenticity and passion — exist in stark contrast to those embodied by technology and mass production. The philosophy of an artisan-tailor is rooted in a “pre-capitalist” ethos, and so he naturally identifies with the clothing that he creates. In the words of one sociologist, “it’s his soul, it’s his intellect, it’s his essence.” Among the questions the film raises: What is the price of progress? What is the value of handmade clothing? And is it viable in a global economy?"

As I watched, I was taken by how professional the men were, always dressed in an impeccable pair of slacks, shirt and tie. They embodied respect for themselves as well as their profession.

The documentary will be available for purchase. It is truly a must see.
 http://menoftheclothfilm.com/