Sleeves On Saturdays/Bell Shaped Sleeve

It seems that every time I see any garment featured for spring, I see a bell shaped sleeve. The new thing I guess. The sleeve shape has been used throughout the ages, but I think it does look rather fresh and fun.

The sleeve pictured below is quite a large, but would be fun on a jacket or a floaty top.  

I love how the one below was accented with a piece of lace at the intersection between the top of the sleeve and the bell, and then trimmed with the lace. Very pretty and feminine.

The Bell Shaped Sleeve

The sleeve is quite easy to do.

Begin with your straight sleeve pattern.

Determine where you would like the bell shape to begin. In the pictures above, the bells begin approximately at the elbow.

Square a line across and be sure to add notches so that the bottom portion of the sleeve can easily be matched back to the upper portion of the sleeve once the bell shape has been drafted.

Cut the lower section away from the upper portion of the sleeve. More than likely, your sleeve will be tapered at the wrist. Square a line down to the wrist section from the elbow line. 

Divide the  lower portion of the sleeve into equal sections. 

Be sure to number each section.

Cut from the wrist to the elbow line, but not through the elbow line. 

Draw a guideline on your paper.

Determine how wide you would like your bell to be. For a fairly small bell, spread each section 1".  Of course, the bigger the bell, the more you will spread each section. 

Begin with the middle section and spread it equally on either side of the guideline. If you are spreading each section 1", you would spread 1/2" on either side of the guideline which will result in a 1" spread.

Now spread your determined amount between each section. For this exercise, each section should be spread equally. In another post, I will show you how to draft a more stylized bell shape where the sections will not be spread exactly the same all the way around the bell shape. 

Connect between the sections with a smooth line to develop your final pattern. The guideline will become your grainline. Be sure to transfer the notches that were established before the original sleeve was cut apart. 

And that's just how easy a bell shaped sleeve is.

I found a couple of sleeves that are very stylized. I love how each looks. It would be easy to think that since each has an elastic top that they are just a rectangle. But I don't think so. I think that each of these sleeves use the same principle. 

Good luck with your bell shape sleeve drafting. I plan to have one made up for you next week. I really love the look and can't wait to have a garment with a bell shaped sleeve!