Sleeves On Saturdays

3/4 Length Sleeve With Simulated Cuff
I'm so late in getting this post out to you, but hopefully, better late than never!
This is a lovely sleeve treatment. The cuff is a part of the sleeve. The inside portion of the sleeve hangs very straight and lays flat against the the arm while the back billows out.

 The inside portion of the sleeve that has no gathers or seam line.

 Begin with your straight sleeve and determine where you would like the sleeve to end on your arm.

This sleeve should have a rather snug fit so you will want to taper it. Do not over do the tapering, you can always take more out once the sleeve has been sewn. 

Now to determine your slash lines. First, decide how wide you would like the simulated cuff to be. Mine is about 2". The dotted line near the bottom of the sleeve represents the slash line for the cuff. Establish the vertical slash lines. The grain line will also be a slash line. You can see from the drawing above that the gathered area will be greater than the ungathered area.

In the above picture I have added the slash line for the placket opening. It is  about midway between the center of the sleeve and the seam line.

Slash on the vertical lines and spread them. I spread my back area a little more than the front. The amount that you spread the pieces will be determined by the type of fabric that you intend to use, the softer the fabric, the more fullness your sleeve can have. 

Once the pieces have been spread apart, you will draw in the dotted line that you see above. The dip in the line is for ease of movement for the elbow. My dip is a little exaggerated, it should be about 1 1/2".   

The final pattern. The dots on the pattern are where the slashed area began. When you cut the sleeve out of fabric, you will want to clip to this point. The gathering will begin and end at the dots. For a rounded placket as I did, just add this to the edge of the slashed cuff area as you see above.

In the picture above and the picture below, you can see the gathering and that the two pieces of the placket meet exactly. The curved area overlaps the straight edge. 

For the cuff facing, follow the simulated cuff area and add seam allowance. 

This is not the easiest sleeve to figure out, but it is a lovely sleeve. If you have questions, I will do my best to help. I hope you give it a try. Just try it in muslin first!