A few days ago, I did a post on Sewing Indie For Free and in it, I posted a link to a piece written by A Sewing Life entitled Five Reasons The Big Four Should be Very Nervous About Indie Pattern Designers. Well, the post was read and here's the reply from none other than.....
Hi Rhonda! Good post as always. We're wondering... if we were to offer a free downloadable pattern, what type do you think we should offer? There are so many options and it's hard to choose something that will make everyone happy. Thoughts?
I replied that this is a question that should be asked of many and not just myself. So what do you think? What would you like to see from the McCall Pattern Company? This is your chance!!! Speak up and be heard!
They should pick one of the PatternReview's past Pattern of the Year from McCall's.
ReplyDeleteKudos to McCall's for listening! And good question...which is hard to answer. It seems to me that the most popular free patterns are fairly easy to sew, are for simple garments without too many pages to print and are for wardrobe basics that work well on a variety of figure types. After considering those criteria, I would think McCall's would want to fill a need that is not already being well-filled by others (so that eliminates t-shirts). A really good knit tank with self-fabric straps that cover a bra comes to mind. Could be one with some volume. Or a cute basic skirt for summer. Maybe a knit pencil skirt. Shorts are under-represented in free patterns and are timely, but I think it would be difficult to get the fitting down pat. McCall's might also consider a kid-sized freebie to appeal to a different segment of the sewing market. I agree that it is hard, and probably impossible, to make everyone happy. Providing a range of sizes (and not cutting off the size range at 16 or 18) would be a good way to avoid annoying an important customer base.
ReplyDeleteHi Rhonda.. Cool they asked out for opinion.. Well I feel it must be a pattern which is fitted and having sleeves.Because when we make one of this kind then we are sure to know where the alterations must be for other patterns we make from he same company. If the free pattern is baggy and loose fitted then of course the community gets a free pattern , but it would not serve the purpose of an experimental muslin :)
ReplyDeleteThe pattern should include all their sizes, not just to size 16 like so many of the free downloads. I think a summer dress with some easy details would be nice. Not just a sack though, something that fits.
ReplyDeleteI agree about including all sizes and it not being a sack or a "one size fits all" type of pattern.
DeleteGood suggestions above! I'd say maybe a cute woven summer top with a sleeved and sleeveless option. That way you can try out their fit on something that's a simple wardrobe basic.
ReplyDeleteIt should be a multi-size pattern. Don't shy away from details either. A current and up to the minute style. I love the way most of the indies are on top of the styles that are now. We don't have to wait until next season for the current trend and they are not afraid to have interesting details and designs. Shorts is a great idea for something that is now and something I would definitely download and make. Maybe a fun shrug and a summer dress. I think the most important thing is that it is different and unique. I've seen several patterns from the Big 4 that are just re-issues (with a new number) of what was previous. Thank you for asking us to both Rhonda and McCalls!!
ReplyDeleteI agree with SueV - something hot and current!!!
ReplyDeleteI agree with SueV - something trendy and hot!!
ReplyDeleteA dress with instructions for altering it to fit…because all the big 4 patterns always require major alteration to fit me. They always swallow me and my teenagers!!
ReplyDeleteI'm with Rena here! I haven't made anything from the Big 4 for many years. No matter what size I try, it swallows me whole.
Deletea choice of a multisize a small range, med range, and so on up to and give largest bust or hip depending on the pattern. they could add tips on cutting out if you are on the fence between sizes. this might be something they do that the others might not. Personally I don't need downloadable from the big 4...I have very easy access for good sales on patterns. The one pattern I did download ...I didn't care for all the work of printing and pasting so for young sewers starting out I would do a very easy basic one(s) to draw new sewers in.
ReplyDeleteMulti size pattern that is a top/dress for knits with details that can be added.
ReplyDeleteAnother idea came to me: a raglan short sleeve pullover top. Why did I think of that? Because I am making the one from SBCC (and I like it very much; happy with the $10 purchase). Sewaholic has also released a similar top, the Belcarra. I chose the SBCC version because I am petite, and I want to explore the supposedly petite-focused fitting of that company. Anyway, this style of top is very versatile and very fashionable this year and it fits my other criteria as being simple, easy to assemble from a PDF pattern and wearable for a range of sizes.
ReplyDeleteHow great that someone is paying attention! I think a skirt pattern is the easiest to fit, definitely not pants. An easy top without buttons would be good, too. I agree with Laurie that I probably would not download anything, because I have tons of TNT patterns, but for someone starting out, it would be a great way for McCall's to get some brand loyalty.
ReplyDeleteQuestion for you all: woven or knit pattern? Does it matter? We are loving all your input!
ReplyDeleteI would love to see a simple woven sheath dress with sleeve and sleeveless being options. A bust dart should be included and fish-eye darts that could either be sewn for more fit or left unsewn for a cool summer option. Being a dress, it could be shortened by the sewer (if wanted) to just a top or tunic length. Several possibilities. Thanks for asking, McCalls! And thanks, Rhonda for the chance to give input!
ReplyDeleteI agree with SueV - something trendy, fitted more than baggy. Maybe something using dri-fit knits, which are super cool and comfy for summer. Although, something retro 60's 70's in a woven would be fun.
ReplyDeleteI agree that it will be impossible to please everyone. Simple and on trend is exciting. Something on trend and one size could be an infinity scarf. Or if there were to be more than on pattern, there could be a schedule. Perhaps plus size patterns on even months. I like the raglan sleeve idea because they fit me well, but I always wear at least 3/4 length sleeves, even in the warmest weather :) Or perhaps, each month go back to the same free pattern and discuss how each of us can customize to our needs. How to make more petite for ripple dandelion, plus sized for some of the others and adding sleeves for people like me.
ReplyDeleteA dress or top would work and would prefer a knit.
ReplyDeleteI think a short sleeve fitted sheath dress would be a good starting point. The sewist would be able to determine where they need to do adjustments (FBA, upper/lower back, shoulder, hip, waist, arm, balancing, etc) in order to fit a McCalls pattern block.
ReplyDeleteIs it possible to make both a woven AND knit pattern available? There are different adjustments you have to make for each type of pattern (i.e. what's the stretch factor or negative ease in a typical knit McCall's pattern)
Thank you to Rhonda and McCalls for giving the chance and being open to input, respectively!
A plus size t shirt with multiple neckline and sleeve options.
ReplyDeleteThat would be my choice !!
There are so many free patterns for knit tops & dresses. I'd like to see one for a pullover woven top.
ReplyDeleteKnit patterns from the big four are not designed for sewists using four-thread sergers. Therefore as free pattern, I would suggest a wardrobe starter for woven fabric. It could attract new sewists.
ReplyDeleteI'm going to echo Beverly. Every indie pattern company seems to have a basic beginner dress
ReplyDeleteand knit t top. Lots are cute but let's face it, there isn't much difference between one and another. If they had to go with a dress than a *really* well drafted sheath dress with sleeve options. Multi-sized and age spanning in design (classic).
I'd love to see a woven tunic or top with season spanning sleeve options, or a vest /long jacket
with some interesting details, or even a skirt pattern that can be done slim with a zipper but also has options for pull on without getting to tiered fiesta proportions.
I vote for a woven top, knits abound. I am also speaking up for a wide range of patterns!
ReplyDeleteSo nice of them to actually reach out and listen!
I mean really, even Marfy offers free downloadable patterns now.
I have been on the look-out for a Tee that has a cut-on sleeve, so that there are two pattern pieces - a front and a back. I'm thinking of striped knit so that the stripes could run horizontal on the front/back, but then chevron down the sleeve (which would of course have an upper and lower seam). This probably makes no sense. I've been thinking of trying to draft it myself, actually! How nice that McCalls asked you this.
ReplyDeleteI guess I'm in the minority. A company offering a free pattern does not make me more willing to buy or not. If I see something I would make then I'll buy it or if it's free then that's great too. If you want to offer something free then that's great. But don't feel obligated to do it.
ReplyDeleteI think it should be a non- knit pattern. A nice summer dress
ReplyDeleteA nice summer dress. Not a knit pattern.
ReplyDeleteA woven top and dress combo would be nice. Something that makes for a great simple top and can also to changes to a dress. Having instructions or a sew along is what the indies do best. I particularly like the "cake" patterns sew-a-longs. The are concise and well written. Or maybe a video that does the "entire" construction for all to follow. Free patterns are not what draw me, it's the construction sew-alongs and videos. That tells me there is a "real" person behind the design involved and knows the troubles we go through with fitting and construction for new sewist.
ReplyDeleteHi there,
ReplyDeleteThank you from a recent follower to your blog - really enjoying it.
Lovelythat McCalls are giving us an opportunity to come forward with ideas.
Some while back Marfy gave 3 patterns so that people could try them out and this covered a tailored jacket, skirt and blouse. May I suggest that a fabulous dress pattern would be great, as a lot of us are coming into summer time so an on trend dress for Summer 2014 would be very welcome.
May I also say, for those of us over a certain age, it is rather nice to have a pattern that if sleeveless, also incorporates a choice of sleeve for those of us that would like to cover our upper arms; or perhaps as I have noted with some of the Vintage/Retro patterns that McCalls?Vogue etc have, seem to sometimes have a little bolero or jacket...............
Can't wait to see what happens next.
Thank you again,
Marysia.
My personal opinions only. Part One. Apparently, my ten points had too many characters to be sent in just one comment. :)
ReplyDeleteSome thoughts for McCall to consider: (1) The big 4 pattern companies have potentially more to gain by offering a free pattern than do the indies, but they also have the potential to lose more. At lest in many minds, the big four are considered to be more commercialized, have more resources at their disposal with which to perfect their patterns, and are considered to be less interested in the welfare of the "common sewist." In essence, they are felt to be somewhat mercenary by many. This is not only a possible problem for McCalls, but also an excellent opportunity to show that they use their resources well and to the benefit of the "usual sewist." So - make sure that whatever you do is done extremely well. None of the poorly matching seams, gimmicks for selling more items,computer grading without testing, etc that are rampant in the usual big four pattern.
(2) The pattern should be basic rather than particularly detailed - so that the sewist can try it, then use it to design other clothes and develop a real love for the pattern. If the sewist can really use the pattern and feel a personal attachment to that pattern, then s/he is more likely to enjoy looking in the pattern books of the big four and see something attractive, then splurge and buy the commercial pattern without having to do all the "designing" his or her self, because it will be considered a big time saver to go directly to the big four pattern rather than sussing it out oneself.
(3) the pattern should be of woven fabric. Variety in woven fabrics is more accessible to the average sewist. Yes, good quality knits are available on-line, but they are often expensive and the sewist - if s/he can afford them, must wait for them. The quality of knits available at local fabric stores is generally apalling. Yet, it seems that many "free" patterns utilize knits because it is assumed that they will stretch and thus fitting will not be as crucial. another point is that while it is possible to sew knits on the common sewing machine, the outcome is often easier and better with a serger, which most do not own. A free pattern should not be considered an opportunity to try to get the consumer to purchase another high-priced item such as the serger. The typical sewist is more savvy these days, just as doctors are finding the average patient to be more savvy than in days past. There is less trust in the big four as being truly consumer oriented rather than mercenary salespeople. Most accept that companies must make a profit, but they get angry when they feel they are being "used.' Pay for value is still seen as being necessary. First comes trust.
(3) Many patterns these days are also low cut and extremely short. SOme of this is fashion driven, but much of it also seems to be driven by the fact that the less of the body that is covered, the less are the fitting issues. This is seen as a cop out by those women who don't want to expose their cleavage or other expanses of body. There is a growing sector of conservative dressers who still want attractive rather than frumpy clothing.
(4) Free pattern - in fact EVERY pattern - should have extensive, good instructions for use. If you are to interest new sewists in sewing (and pattern purchasing) you must make it understandable for them to use your product. These instructions should be TESTED by beginner sewists rather than simply being spit out by a computer program with minimal input from humans who know how to sew. The instructions should be tested on beginners because it is never safe to assume that the end pattern user has even a fraction of the sewing knowledge that the company experts have.Rather than boring the experienced customer, such detailed and GOOD instructions - including alternative options where possible - will gain their respect, even if they skip steps. You are trying to build trust here.
Part Two:
ReplyDelete(5) Free pattern should be available in a wide range of sizes because the sewists exist in a wide range of sizes.
(6) Free pattern - in fact, all patterns - should have photos of the item, without special fitting, on real people in a variety of sizes instead of simple line drawings.
(7) Item most likely should be directed at females if there is any gender issue, since more of the target audience is female than male.
(8) Clothing items rather than home decorating items would most likely be more successful in gaining an extended audience
(9) The entire purpose of a free pattern, in my own opinion, is to gain trust of customers so that they will make a future purchase. It is analogous to a "free sample" in a restaurant or bakery. You want the client to try the item and enjoy it so much that they will buy an entire loaf or meal either now or in the near (and far) future. Great care should be given to the quality and ease of use of the sample so that clients will truly trust and be interested in risking hard earned money to have more. Once the client likes the initial offering, consistency of product must be maintained.
(10) Final point, and this is related to point #9, People are disappointed and angry with a poor product at any price. People are even disappointed and angry with something that is supposedly "free." After all, in the sewing realm, the individual will have spent time in the preparation and sewing of the item and will have spent some amount of money in notions, fabric, etc. Discounted sales on big four patterns are great. Sales on anything are great. However, simple sales will not gain the upper hand, if the discounted pattern ends up being a waste of time and doesn't produce what the consumer thinks s/he is purchasing.
Can you tell that I am an opinionated sewist?
I echo most of the comments above: a woven dress with sleeves, some details, too, something that would leave me with the idea that yes, I can get a McCall's pattern to fit me :) Don't forget we also buy patterns here, in Europe, and we don't have the huge knit fabrics options you have in the US ;) Oh, and a wide range of sizes sounds great. I never bother downloading a pattern (even if it's free!) if it's not in my size - with so little sewing, time, I don't want to lose time with up/down-grading.
ReplyDeleteThanks for listening!
A pattern with optional cup sizes would be great. I've tried those patterns and it is wonderful to not have to do a full bust alteration!
ReplyDeleteThank you everyone! I concur - a top with sleeves (not kimono) in a wide variety of sizes (petite & plus, different cup options) that's been tested and has good instructions. A dress option would be a bonus, but to know that a McCalls bodice fitted me if I did X/Y/Z (& to have the clear instructions to do X,Y&Z included) would make me a very happy repeat customer. (until they fell down with future offerings that didn't meet the same standards) ;)
ReplyDeleteA woven top, with sleeves so that we can get an idea of the fit to expect in similar patterns from McCall's
ReplyDeleteI would like to see a pattern that is not too complicated but has interesting details and since most of us are a combination of sizes, all sizes should be included. Since the pattern will be online, photos and comprehensive instructions should be included to ensure a successful outcome, especially for someone new to sewing. Too many times because of space constraints, the printed instructions are not detailed enough for many sewers. Because of the different learning styles, there should be both detailed illustrations and text.
ReplyDeleteThey should rotate the free pattern! Maybe one per quarter? Doesn't that Australian company offer a free pattern each month?
ReplyDeleteI think a woven dress pattern with sleeve options would be great. Something with a few details in it that make it interesting.
ReplyDeleteThe big 4 have one thing none of the indies have: archives. Thousands and thousands of patterns spanning almost a century. Make them available digitally!
ReplyDelete