Drafting The Front Fitted Bodice, Adding Darts

Now that we've drafted the basic bodice, we can now start adding the darts. The darts will give the bodice the shape and fit that we are looking for. I really enjoy this part of the drafting process!

Begin by tracing off the basic front bodice pattern.

Transfer K-L line and remark as A-B. Transfer the W-V line along with X at bust point and remark as E at waistline.

C-D is 1/4 of waist measurement plus 2" for dart. Example; if your waist measurement is 32", 1/4 of 32 is 8. Add 2 to 8. Line C-D would then be 10".

Mark F and G 1" on either side of E and connect B to D with a straight line. .

Measure down from bust point 1 1/2" and mark as H.

Connect F to H and G to H.

The side seam dart can be placed anywhere along the side seam, but I like to place the center of the dart 3" below the underarm. Mark this point as I.

To determine the width of the side seam dart, measure the side seam of the front basic bodice and the side seam of the back basic bodice. The difference between the two will be the width of the side seam dart. As an example; if the side seam of the front basic bodice is 10" and the side seam of the back basic bodice is 11 1/2", the side seam dart width will be 1 1/2".

Draw a guide line from I to bust point. Measure 1 1/2" from bust point and mark as L.

Divide the difference of the front and back side seam difference in half and place a mark on either side of I. Mark as J and K.

Connect J and K to L.

Once you have added the darts to the front bodice, set this aside. Our next step will be to add the darts to the basic back bodice. Once we have added the darts to the back bodice, I will show you how to true the darts, my favorite step!!
After the darts are trued, I will then cut my bodice out of muslin and we will begin the fitting process. As I said when we started, my fitting issues may not be yours, but hopefully you will learn something from the changes that I will make to my bodice.