Master Sewing and Design Certification Program

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Friday, January 10, 2014

Drafting a Basic Bodice, Taking Measurements

My first experience with pattern drafting was when I was 15 years old and I drafted a pair of pants. I actually thought that since I was drafting the pants from my body measurements, they would fit perfectly without any fitting. They did not and I was very upset. Being 15 and not knowing any better, I thought that I had somehow made a mistake. Maybe I did make a few mistakes, but ultimately great fit is achieved through fitting. So as we go through this process, please keep my 15 year old experience in mind and try and be a little patient with the process and yourself.  
Below is my chart for taking measurements. As I drew this out, it occurred to me that it might be a great help to see me take my measurements. Let me know if this is something you would like to see and I will be happy to do so.
Front Bodice Measurements

1. Neck: Measure around your entire neckline at the base of your neck.
2. Shoulder To Bustpoint: Measure from the base of the neck at your shoulder to your bustpoint. Be sure to wear a well fitting bra while taking your measurements.
3. High Bust: Measure above bust from base of arm to base of arm.
4. Bustpoint to bustpoint.
5. Full bust measurement: Measure around fullest point of bust.
6. Shoulder to Waistline: Measure from base of neck at shoulder to bustpoint, then continue to wasitline.
7. Full Waist Measurement: To find your waist, place your hands on your hips and bend to the side. Where you bend is your waistline. Measure around body.
8. Hip Length: Measure from waistline to fullest area of hips.
9. Full Hip Measurement: Measure around hips at fullest point.
 
Back Bodice Measurements
1. Shoulder to Shoulder: Measure from shoulder point to shoulder point across back.  
2. Across Back: This measurement is taken across the back from the base of the arm to the base of the arm.
3. Center Back Length: Measure from base of neckline to waist.   

Tomorrow we will begin drafting a basic bodice top.

Tools for Drafting;
1.I cannot live without a 2" wide clear ruler. They are 18" in length. The ruler pictured below is my absolute favorite. I have quite a few.

2. A French Curve. A great little tool that everyone should have. A basic one is fine. They can usually be found at art supply stores.

3. Hip Curve. You can get by without a hip curve, but I believe that if you are going to do any amount of drafting, it is a tool that is well worth the investment. Mine is metal and is exactly like the one pictured below. Here is a link for ordering one of your own, http://www.amazon.com/Designer-Curve-Ruler-Aluminum-Construction/dp/B000V808HG/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1389370547&sr=1-2

4. Drafting paper. When I was in school, it was recommended that we work with brown paper. I happened upon a roll of white paper at an office supply store and  loved it because I see through the paper and easily trace lines. I have never gone back to using brown paper.

I hope this will be a fun and interesting process for everyone. As I said yesterday, it's something that I really enjoy so I know I'll have a good time!!!

14 comments:

  1. Thank you for posting this. Please continue with this series. I struggle so much with drafting and pattern adjustments--sometimes becoming overwhelmed with books and online tutorials. Hopefully I can get over this hurdle. :)

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    1. I'm planning to work through the bodice, sleeve, skirt and pant.

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  2. Looking forward to this series. I really enjoy seeing the different ways drafting is done to basically arrive at the same place. It helps to understand the concepts or ideas better and in turn I can figure out things once I know the goal or ending.

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  3. YIPPEE! I love to learn, learn, learn. Would love to see you measure yourself. For one thing: HOW can you do that????
    Hugs, Joy

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  4. Rhonda, this sounds fun. Getting my measurements done today!

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  5. Having had to grade some patterns recently this is really useful. Thanks

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  6. How fun! One question that came up when I was talking with a sewing friend: how snugly do you hold the tape measure when you take measurements? I've been taught to take measurements with a snug fit (not deathly tight but not loose), as ease will be added later. I'm curious about your thoughts on this.

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    1. Hi Jean, I am going to do a post on taking measurements using myself as the guinea pig :) I do not take tight measurements. I like to have a bit of room to work with. If I want a tighter fit, I can make adjustments while fitting. I'm planning to do the measurement taking post on Monday.

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  7. One of my goals for the year is to work on bodice fitting/drafting. So, many thanks for this! One question about the measurements: I've never been clear on what exactly is meant by the base of the arm or how to find the right place to measure from. Can you explain or demonstrate?

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    1. Hi Clio, I am going to do a post on taking measurements, so I should be able to answer your question. Look for the measurement post on Monday.

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  8. Thanks so very much for this series! I just recently become obsessed with learning pattern drafting and draping.

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  9. Rhonda this series sounds great and so timely.
    I could not wait until Monday so I asked DH to take my measurements in order to trace the pattern this afternoon.
    Many thnks.

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  10. i am a beginner and I am loving this series

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