Master Sewing and Design Certification Program

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Friday, September 12, 2014

Pant Drafting, Part 3

Drafting the Front Pant Pattern
Now that we've taken our measurements, it's time to begin the drafting process. This will be a 3 post process. Today we will begin with drafting the front pant. I will post the directions for drafting the back pant tomorrow.

A to B is crotch measurement.
 From both A and B, draw right angles across.
 B to C is 1/4 of hip measurement plus 1/4" for ease.
 Complete the rectangle by drawing a right angle line up from C, to A line and mark as D.
 Extend out from C 2" or 1/4 of B to C and mark as E.
Divide C to D line into 3 equal parts. Mark first mark as F.
 Connect F to E with a straight line.
 Find the center point between E and F. Draw a straight line to C.
 Divide G-C line into 3 equal parts. Mark closest to G will be H.
 Beginning at F, draw a curved line through H back to E.
 Divide E to B in half and mark as J.
 Square a straight line through J.
 K to L is the pant length measurement.
 At L square a line across. L to N is 1/4 of leg opening and L to M is 1/4 of leg opening measurement.
E to O is 1/2".  
Connect O to M with a straight line.
 B to P is the same as C to F.
 Connect P to N with a straight line.
 Smooth out at P with a slightly curved line.
D to Q is 1/4 of waist measurement plus 2" for darts. So if your waist measurement is 28", add 2" for the dart allowance. Divide 30 by 4. The result is 7 1/2". In this example D to Q would be 7 1/2".
 Connect Q to P with a curved line.
Once we draft the back pant we will then add the darts, so at this point, put the front pant aside and congratulate yourself on a job well done!.

15 comments:

  1. You make it look so simple. I am off out to buy some pattern paper today. Decent trousers here I come! :)

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    1. I should have talked about this. I don't buy expensive pattern paper. I go to the office supply store and purchase a roll of white paper. I love it! The nice thing about plain white paper is that I can see through it. Works great.

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  2. This is such a great tutorial, Rhonda, so clear and do-able.Thanks so much for your efforts.

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    1. Thanks Bunny! Well, whether anyone gives it a try or not, I'm having fun. Designing, drafting and teaching is obviously a passion :)

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  3. Oooo Rhonda! I'm having fun, too!! Measured myself last night (with the help of hubby; we had a good laugh) and then drafted the front pant. So curious to see how this will affect fit, when all is said and done.

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    1. You'll be drafting your own pants I have a feeling :)

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  4. Thank you Rhonda, this is so clear, I am attending an ASG Convention Workshop 2 days to draft our pants and 2 days for the couture details. This has given me a heads up thank you.

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  5. Thanks for this awesome series. How about the ease at leg opening ?

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    1. When measuring around the foot as I showed you, you should be able to slip your foot out of the measuring tape. So you do not pull the tape tight.

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  6. I am so excited. I did it. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Now to do the next one.

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    1. Woo Hoo!!! I'll post the instructions for adding the darts and shaping the pants on Tuesday. I'm so happy that you are enjoying the drafting.

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  7. Oh I can't wait to do this this weekend. I am so darn excited. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

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    1. Wow, it's so nice to see someone so excited about pattern drafting :)

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  8. Hi,

    This looks good. Much simpler for newbies like me.
    Do we really have to add darts for pants worn with long tops. I want a fitted pajama pant.

    Regards.
    Nuzhath

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    1. If you want a fitted pant, it will need darts. As for pajamas, just remember to not make them toonrestricting as you want to be comfortable when you sleep 😴

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